I solved the problem by installing a 48″ length of Rockler T-Track on the side of my bench, and I’ve equipped it with a pair of hold-down clamps that tighten with star knobs. Now, edge clamping is as easy as can be, and the hold-down clamps are plenty strong to keep the stock from shifting as I work on it.

-Alan Fletcher
Mahtomedi, Minnesota

The post Benchtop T-Track Planing Clamp appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

– John Wetlaufer, Sr.
Mechanicsville, Virginia

The post Storage Solution for Glue Bottles appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Let a CNC Tackle the Ovals

The good news, for those of you who have a CNC router in the shop, or have access to one, is that we are offering the .tap files to make this clock free.

If you have never used a CNC but are thinking of giving it a try, this would be a great starter project. And if you are thinking of taking the jump into the world of CNCs, this little clock can be made on nearly any size machine. We used Next Wave Automation’s Shark SD100 — an entry-level and affordable CNC option.

Making the Clock

Although a CNC could form the 3″ round hole on the back of the clock blank, a Forstner bit does the job in a snap. Bore a recess for the clock movement, then a 5/16″-dia. hole for the movement’s shaft.

Clamp the clock blank onto the CNC deck and use a spoil board under the blank to protect the deck from the cutter. On the SD100 unit, we used a combination of different clamps to secure the blank.

Center the X and Y coordinates over the hole you bored for the clock movement’s shaft. Then go ahead and run the two .tap files to shape the clock.

With the machining done, sand the clock body up through the grits to about 320-grit. The smoother the surface, the easier it is to get a pleasing clear finish on your clock.

After sanding, we used an aerosol can of shellac to apply a seal coat. Shellac dries quickly and does not have an unpleasant odor. The shellac will keep the epoxy from bleeding into the wood fibers.

Mix a few ounces of Table Top epoxy from MAS. The consistency of this product is perfect for filling the openings machined by the CNC router. Mixing the A and B components completely is a key to success.

Add white pigment to the epoxy mixture. We used Mixol universal colorant and chose white for this version of the clock, but color decisions are subjective and entirely up to the builder.

Pour the epoxy mixture into the openings. You may need to use a small stick or the end of a screw to help the epoxy flow and completely fill the openings. Examine the fill levels carefully.

Use a torch or a high-powered heat gun to remove any air bubbles from the epoxy mixture. After the epoxy cures overnight, sand the clock face smooth. Apply another coat of finish and then mount the clock movement.

The post Project: Lollipop Clock appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

That’s the first hidden benefit to this table, but it also has a touch-opened door that swings away to give you access to the table’s interior. Just push the edge of the door and the latch will pop the door forward, revealing a storage compartment. (With the door closed, the compartment is hidden.)

One last unique feature are the steel legs sold by Rockler. They keep this table’s modern mojo going. Intense colors, wireless technology and groovy metal legs make this a 21st-century table for sure.

Building, Veneering the Carcass

I decided to lay up veneer on MDF for this project. If that is a task you are just not willing to try, you can always build this table from veneered MDF or plywood instead … it will work just fine. I chose the veneering route to control the grain patterns. With very simple shapes like this basic rectangular box, how the veneer is laid up can make a big difference in how the project presents itself. I’ll discuss two different veneering methods later. I used both on this project, but I do prefer one over the other.

The carcass construction could not be easier. Cut the parts to the dimensions found in the Material List. My experience with MDF is that it produces a lot of airborne particulate, even with good dust collection. For that reason, I suggest protecting your lungs by wearing a dust respirator or using whatever method works best for you.

When you have the top, bottom and sides cut to length and width, miter-cut their edges. Then with the blade still set to 45 degrees, cut a groove to accept splines that will be used to make assembly a bit easier. If you use a full-kerf saw blade, one pass per mitered edge will do the job. If you are using a thin-kerf blade, take another pass to create a full 1/8″-wide spline groove. The last step on the carcass parts is to form a rabbet on their rear edges. I did this on the table saw, making a 1/8″-deep rabbet 3/4″ wide. These rabbets will capture the back panel when it’s installed during assembly.

With those pieces cut to size and shaped, their front edges need to be trimmed with hardwood. I had decided to use quartersawn white oak veneer for this project, so I made the trim out of white oak. I glued it onto the front edge and then machined the ends of the trim to match the panels’ corner miters. As you might have guessed, I made those cuts on the table saw.

At this point I needed to make a decision. I wanted the interior of the carcass to be lined with a very light-colored veneer. It is much easier to see the inside of a box if it is not a black hole. I made the choice to use pressure sensitive white birch veneer inside the carcass. (Okay, so I lied earlier … I used three veneer application techniques on this table.) I cut the pieces of veneer to size using a utility knife and a straight-edge. Then I carefully rolled it onto the inside faces of the top, bottom and sides. I overlaid the entire surface, even the white oak edging, and I used a J-roller to apply enough force to be sure the pressure-sensitive adhesive bonded tightly to the substrate. I then used a block plane to trim what little overhang there was.

Secret Charging

There was a time not so long ago when I refused to buy a cell phone. Now I sleep with mine. The nifty wireless charging unit we used in this table is easy to install and very handy. The critical thing to keep in mind is that it needs to be within 1/8″ of the surface of the table to work correctly.

This is critical, so be sure to test the setup before you move on to the next steps. It is not important how I came to this piece of knowledge …

Because I work for a woodworking magazine and we own a home shop laser, I made my routing template from 1/8″-thick Plexiglas on the laser. A piece of 1/4″ hardboard would do just as well. Final thought here: you have the option of having the door open to the right or the left.

I suggest you place your charger on the same side of the carcass as the door opens. That will mean you can access the phone charger and the inside of the carcass from your side of the bed.

Two More Veneering Methods

My favorite method for veneering is the old-school veneer press and lots of clamps. It is how I veneered the top and the door of this project. I do one thing out of the ordinary there and use blue masking tape to join my veneer. I also use traditional white glue.

I employed a different technique when securing the white oak veneer pieces to the side panels. I created custom iron on veneer. How? By applying a coat of white glue to both the MDF substrate and veneer pieces and allowing them to dry (in this case overnight). I was then able to use a household iron set on its highest heat setting and simply iron the pieces to the substrate. I honestly don’t know why this works, but I assume it’s a science thing. It is a bit like magic when it works, and it is a great technique for small projects like boxes where you are using a single piece of veneer.

Where it has its shortcomings is on larger projects, like bedside tables. When covering larger areas using this technique, you need to place several sheets of veneer edge to edge. In the old-school method, you tape the edges together (after joining them to have two perfectly straight edges). The result is seams that are really hard to spot.

With the iron-on method, those seams are highly visible. They are not unsightly, but you can easily see them. As well, in my experience it is easy to not get a good veneer/substrate bond at the edges of the piece, which leads to some annoying and picky re-gluing and clamping. Even with these shortcomings, some woodworker might prefer this to the veneer press method.

Before you assemble the carcass parts, take a moment to rip 1/8″ by 5/8″ wide splines. Cut them to the length indicated in the Material List. I put blue masking tape at the corner joints to keep the glue squeeze-out from the veneer. Then clamp up the carcass parts making sure they are square in the clamps. The door of this table’s carcass is made of MDF with 1/2″ mitered edging. I laid up veneer on both faces of the door using the veneer press method. The “baked in” solid oak provides durable edges and allows enough material to easily fit the inset door.

A note about the veneer’s grain direction. You may have noticed that on the sides and door, I ran the veneer vertically rather than horizontally. I think this orientation provides an interesting look for the table that would be tricky to achieve with solid wood. I ran the top’s veneer front to back, and I placed the flake patterns to align with the patterns on the door. Small details, but I think they look nice.

Final Hardware Details

The small European hinges used to hang the door are installed just like the full-sized versions and have all the adjustability of their big brothers. The long-throw touch latch opens the door far enough that your fingers easily fit behind the door to fully open it.

Finishing this piece added to its trendy look. By using dye rather than traditional stains, I was able to get some deep, intense colors.

While color choice is quite subjective, I think these really work well.

Lastly, install the back panel in its rabbets and attach the steel legs to the carcass bottom with screws.

All in all, this was an enjoyable project. The wireless charger is a feature that fits our modern world, and the table’s overall look pushed my boundaries. Even though I too find veneering to be a bit putsy, it adds to the quality and overall attractiveness of the piece.

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

Hard-to-Find Hardware:

Mini Blum 90° Clip-On Frameless Inset Hinge (1) #38411
Sugatsune ML-120 Long-Stroke Magnetic Touch Latch (1) #67568
Standard Side Table (Leg) Kit (1) #65719
Orange TransTint Dye (1) #22307
Cordovan TransTint Dye (1) #24397

The post PROJECT: Cordless Charging Bedside Table appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Making a clock is a fun project that doesn’t necessarily require a lot of tools. You can make the clock face out of just about any piece of lumber. All it needs is a hole for the clock mechanism to fit through. You can also be as creative as you like with the clock face. Keep it simple and clean with a clear finish and no numbers. Or enhance it with applied numbers or techniques such as carving, painting or woodburning.

Step 1: Cut a 3/4″-thick x 12″ x 12″ piece of plywood, or glue up a solid panel for the clock face. We used a circle-cutting jig and a compact plunge router for the next step. Mount the jig’s base to the center of the workpiece. Attach the circle-cutting jig arm to the base of the router, and install a straight bit in the collet. Position the pivot point on the jig to cut a 10-1⁄2″-dia. circle. Now set the router to a 1/4″-deep cut, and rout the circle in three passes, lowering the bit depth by 1/4″ after each pass.

Step 2: Drill a 5/16″-dia. hole through the center of the clock face to accommodate the clock movement shaft.

Step 3: Set up the Interlock Signmaker’s Templates to rout the twelve, three, six and nine o’clock numbers one at a time. Connect an extra spacer on each side of the numbers to provide additional support for the router base.

Position the template so that the outside edge of the number is 1/2″ in from the edge of the clock face. Secure the templates with double-sided tape under the templates or painter’s tape over the edges of the templates.

Step 4: The six and nine require two templates to complete the shapes and must be cut in two passes. The templates for these numbers are lettered A and B.

Step 5: Next, apply the finish of your choice. We used a low-nap roller to apply paint to the surface and left the routed numbers natural.

We made a second clock out of bamboo plywood and brush-painted only the letters. We then applied two coats of satin water-based poly to all surfaces.

Step 6: The final step is to install the Mini Quartz Clock Movement clock mechanism and hands as instructed on the product packaging. The Straight Clock Hands we used were black, so we painted both hands, the washer and the nut to complement each clock. Insert the movement’s stem through the center hole from the back, secure it with the washer and nut and attach the hands to it.

The post PROJECT: Modern Clock with Large Numbers appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Making the Tabletop in Multiple Glue-ups

This project’s tabletop is a substantial 1-1⁄4″ thick. I made mine starting from a plank of heavily figured 8/4 ambrosia maple, but any hardwood species you prefer will work fine, too. Rip and crosscut enough stock to prepare the blank, and plane it down to 1-5⁄8″ thick. Joint and edge-glue the pieces to create two 12″ x 24″ blanks — this way they’re still narrow enough to fit through most lunchbox or larger planers. Plane them to final thickness, and glue the two halves together. When the clamps come off, scrape the center joint, trim the panel to final size and sand it smooth. Then set the tabletop panel aside.

Assembling the Cabinet Carcass

Following the Material List, cut a top and bottom panel for the cabinet carcass to final size from 3/4″-thick plywood. If you’re planning to paint the project as I have, choose a plywood with a face veneer that will accept a painted finish well. Baltic birch, regular birch or maple plywood are all good choices, as they have a closed-pore structure that won’t telegraph a grain pattern through the paint.

Notice in the Drawings that the carcass end panels are rabbeted along their top and bottom edges. These rabbets will hide the ends of the top and bottom panels from view, once they’re assembled. Install a wide dado blade in your table saw, and raise it to a cutting height of 1/2″. With the blade partially buried in a sacrificial fence clamped to the rip fence, set the blade’s exposure to a width that matches the exact thickness of the plywood you’re using — it might be 23/32″ thick or a full 3/4″, depending on the manufacturer. Mill a rabbet across the end of each end panel and into its same face. Be sure to make a trial rabbet cut on scrap first, to check your blade and fence settings.

Pocket-screw joints are an easy, concealed way to attach face frames to carcasses from the inside. So I decided to use that method here. I drilled a series of screw pockets along the short ends of the end panels and the long edges of the top and bottom panels on their inside faces.

Once those pocket holes are drilled, spread glue along the rabbets, and clamp the carcass top, bottom and end panels together. Measure the diagonals of the assembly to ensure that the diagonal lengths match, which confirms that the corner joints are square. If the numbers are off by more than about 1/16″, adjust the clamping pressure or the clamp positions as needed to correct for squareness. Sometimes simply loosening the clamps a bit will correct the problem, too. When the glue dries, remove the clamps, and reinforce the rabbets with 1-1⁄4″-long 18-gauge brads, driving the brads through the rabbet tongues and into the top and bottom panels.

Next, rip and crosscut pairs of solid wood rails and stiles to create the two face frames that will surround the carcass openings and hide the plywood edges. Maple or poplar are good choices for these parts, because either accepts a painted finish well. Assemble the face frames with a centered pocket screw joint at each corner. Drill the screw pocket holes through the back faces of the rails, then clamp the rails and stiles together with the stiles overlapping the ends of the rails. Drive a 1-1⁄4″ pocket screw into each joint to secure the connections. Plane or sand any mismatched joints flush.

When those are ready, set each face frame into position on the carcass and clamp it in place. Drive 1-1⁄4″ pocket screws into the carcass pocket holes to attach the face frames. Sand or plane away any overhanging face frame areas so the frames are flush with the cabinet all around.

One of the neat features of this coffee table is that the top seems to levitate above the cabinet. A shadow line underneath the top is what creates this illusion, and it’s formed by a separate 1/2″-thick mitered subframe of solid wood that’s inset 3/4″ in from the top ends and edges of the cabinet. Create the long and short pieces of the mitered frame by preparing 2″-wide frame members from 1/2″-thick solid wood. Miter-cut their ends to 45 degrees.

Draw layout lines 3/4″ in from the ends and edges of the carcass to indicate where to position the subframe pieces. Then glue and install the four frame pieces onto the carcass, nailing the parts to the top panel with 1″-long 18-gauge brads. Make a crosspiece from more 1/2″ stock, and install it across the middle of the subframe to serve as an additional point of connection for the coffee table’s tabletop.

The drawers for this project are mounted on full-extension drawer slides. The slides must clear the inside edges of the face frame stiles to operate correctly. To do that, we’ll install 1/2″-thick support strips inside the carcass for mounting the slide hardware flush to the face frame edges. Make up four of these supports, and glue and nail them to the carcass end panels. Locate the bottom edges of the strips 3-1⁄2″ and 9-9⁄16″ up from the inside bottom face of the carcass.

Unclip the “cabinet-side” member of each drawer slide from the “drawer-side” member. Attach the cabinet-side members to the drawer slide supports so the hardware is centered on the supports. The front edge of the slide should be flush with the back edge of the face frame. When hanging the slides with their included screws, choose the horizontal, slotted holes for placing the screws. That way, you’ll have some in-and-out drawer adjustability when the drawers are hung. Go ahead and clip the drawer-side members of the slide hardware back onto the cabinet-side members.

Building the Drawers

Measure the distance between the faces of the drawer-slide hardware to determine the final length of the four drawer boxes. Then prepare enough 5/8″-thick solid stock for the drawer fronts, backs and sides as well as a couple of test pieces. Cut the drawer parts to final width and length.

Rabbet-and-dado joints are simple and surprisingly sturdy for drawer construction, so I chose them for this project. To make them, install a 5/16″-wide dado blade in the table saw and raise it to 5/16″. Lock the rip fence 5/16″ away from the blade. Use this setting for cutting dadoes across the inside faces of the drawer box side workpieces.

Once the dadoes are cut, clamp an auxiliary fence to the rip fence and widen the dado set by a chipper. Bury the dado blade in the fence so just 5/16″ projects out from it. Make test cuts on the end of a scrap piece to see if this rabbet fits the drawer-side dadoes, and adjust the blade setup as needed. When your “test” rabbet fits the dado, cut the rabbets into the ends of the drawer box front and backs.

Now restack your dado blade to 1/4″ wide to cut a drawer bottom groove along the inside faces of all the drawer box workpieces. Position these grooves 1/4″ up from the bottom edges of the parts, and make the grooves 1/4″ deep.

Dry assemble the drawer boxes to verify the final dimensions of the drawer bottom panels, then cut the four drawer bottoms to size from 1/4″ plywood. Sand all the drawer parts up to 180-grit, and glue and clamp the drawer boxes together. Be careful when tightening the clamps that the drawer boxes remain square. When the glue dries and the clamps come off, attach the drawer side components of the slide hardware to the drawer boxes with screws, centering the slides on the sides of the drawers. After those are in place, clip the slides together to hang the boxes in the cabinet.

Now you can cut the six drawer faces to size from solid wood. Install them on the drawer boxes with strips of double-sided tape so you can position them evenly in their openings. I used fender washers as temporary spacers to hold the drawer faces about 1/16″ apart when positioning and sticking them in place. Install a couple of clamps to hold each drawer face more securely before driving several 1-1⁄8″-long countersunk screws from inside the drawer boxes into the drawer face to secure it. Then unscrew the drawer faces from the drawer boxes, and remove the drawer slide hardware to prepare for final finishing. Ease all the edges and sharp corners of the drawer faces with a sanding block.

General Finishes Milk Paint: Flat-out Easy Topcoat Option

True milk paint is often powdered, requiring that it be mixed into solution with water. It dries to a flat sheen. Achieving even coloration with thin milk paint can take several coats. General Finishes has formulated their mineral-based milk paint line to simulate the flat sheen and color palette of traditional milk paint, but with easier application and better durability. This premixed and ready-to-use indoor/outdoor paint can be brushed, rolled or sprayed. I had excellent results using a 3″ foam paint roller. GF Milk Paint has almost no odor. It flattens out well, dries quickly and offers soap-and-water cleanup. Sold in pints or quarts, one pint was sufficient for me to complete this project. If you skip a primer coat and apply the milk paint directly to bare wood, you may need to use more paint for even coverage.

Applying a Painted Finish

I’ve been wanting to try milk paint for a long while, and this project’s plywood cabinet provided an ideal opportunity to do that. Milk paint is formulated to dry to a flat sheen, and it comes in a variety of interesting earth tone and primary tints that are unlike ordinary latex or enamel color options. While I hadn’t anticipated it, milk paint on this project also helps to create the illusion that the cabinet might actually be made of metal and not wood. I think it’s a rather neat effect!

The first step in the painting process was to fill the brad nail holes in the rabbet joints with wood putty, as well as other minor seams and evidence of tearout in the plywood. Once it dries, sand away the excess putty and smooth the application areas. Since the deep midnight blue color I planned to use was going to be applied over blonde plywood and maple, I started with a base coat of gray primer, applied to the cabinet’s exterior and drawer faces with a foam paint roller and brush. Mask off the interior areas where needed first, for neater application and final appearance.

While the primer was drying, it afforded a good opportunity to give the tabletop and drawer boxes a final sanding so I could finish them with three coats of water-based polyurethane. I used General Finishes Enduro Var in a satin sheen; its ambering effect and fast drying time has made it one of my favorite finishes for many years.

Once the primer dries, sand it lightly with 220-grit paper to smooth any rough areas caused by dust nibs or minor grain-raising. Then you’re clear to roll on one or two coats of milk paint as needed to create even coverage. I gave the painted finish 24 hours to dry and then followed with a coat of General Finishes water-based High Performance Flat Top Coat, which adds a layer of protection over the paint without altering its flat sheen.

Installing the Tabletop and Hardware

With the varnished and painted finishes now complete, go ahead and install the tabletop on the cabinet. Keep in mind
that since it’s made of solid wood, the top needs to be able to expand and contract across its width as humidity levels change. I fastened the cabinet to the tabletop with nine 2″ panhead wood screws. To account for wood movement, I drove three screws through round pilot holes, centered on the width of the cabinet and the subframe parts. For the other six screws, I created 1/2″-long slotted holes, orienting them in the direction the tabletop panel would need to move. I centered the screws in these slotted holes before sinking them into place.

Installing the top requires inverting the coffee table to drive the screws. With its bottom face still up, now is also a good time to install the casters. I positioned their mounting plates 1″ in from the ends and edges of the cabinet and secured them with 1-1⁄4″ carriage bolts, washers and locknuts. I faced the threaded ends of the bolts toward the cabinet’s interior.

Set the coffee table on its casters so you can reinstall the drawer slides. Hang the drawer boxes inside the cabinet and screw the drawer faces back onto them again. When that’s done, you can lay out the positions of a pair of drawer pulls on each of the six drawer faces, drill pilot holes for their installation screws and install them. I inset the pulls 3-3⁄4″ in from the outer edges of the face frames (equivalent to one pull length), and I centered them on the drawer face widths.

Finish up construction by installing a metal card holder on each drawer to further simulate the look of a vintage cartography cabinet. I centered these between the pulls and attached them with tiny Phillips screws that come with the card holders. Check the drawer action and alignment, and install more screws in the drawer slide hardware as needed to fix them permanently. Here’s to happy(er) trails again soon!

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

Hard-to-Find Hardware:

3″ Aluminum Swivel Caster with Polyethylene Tread and Brake (4) #60876
10″ Series 757 100-lb. Over-Travel Centerline® Lifetime Slides, Black (4) #47057
Flat Card Holder, Nickel (6) #47608
Ashley Norton Apollo Cabinet Pull (12) #GRP41100
General Finishes Coastal Blue Milk Paint, Pint (3) #39130
General Finishes High Performance Water-based Top Coat Flat, Quart (1) #53869

The post PROJECT: Cartographer’s Coffee Table appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Made from a piece of wood 3/4″ x 2″ x 6″, the only tools you need are a drill press, band saw and sander. But there is a twist: we used a 1-1⁄4″-dia. dish-carving router bit in the drill press to bore the scoop recess. It creates curved edges around the bottom of the scoop bowl.

After the bowl has been bored, move over to your band saw or scroll saw. Narrow the thickness of the stock in the clip area down to about 1/4″ — it does not have to be exact. A long slice down the back comes first (we used a fence as a guide), then back out of the cut, move the fence over and, with the blank on one edge, make a short cut to remove the material.

Next, cut the long slot in the clip. It should be about 1/8″ wide and will take a couple of passes to achieve. When that’s done, you’re ready to shape the outside of the scoop. The final shape is up to you; it can be straightforward or a bit fanciful, as you wish.

We have provided a downloadable PDF to give you the hole and slot placements, but the outside shape is for you to determine. A bit of sanding, and the project is done. You can apply a finish like shellac or let the oils in the coffee seal the wood. Then pour yourself a cup of Joe!

The post PROJECT: Coffee Clip appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Start by cutting three sections of a 2″ to 3″-dia. branch to rough length; we made ours 3″, 5″ and 7″ long.

Select a Forstner bit slightly larger than the candles’ diameter. Tea candles, used here, are typically 1-1⁄2″ in diameter, so we chose a 1-5⁄8″-dia. Forstner bit.

Bore a 2″-deep, centered hole into the end of each branch at the drill press with it securely held in place. We clamped our branch sections in a heavy vise clamped to the drill press table and lined its metal jaws with scrap wood.

Set the drill press speed appropriately and use moderate feed pressure when drilling, clearing the accumulating chips frequently by raising the chuck.

Now secure each branch horizontally in a wood screw clamp so you can safely angle-cut its top end at the band saw. The degree of the angle is up to you, but leave the holes deep enough at the bottom to hide the metal candle holders.

Set the branches together attractively and fix them into a group with dabs of hot-melt glue. Apply the glue sparingly and in spots where it will be hidden.

Next, prepare a centerpiece base from a piece of attractive scrap wood. Set the candle holder cluster onto it, and draw a layout line all around the branches about 1″ larger than their perimeter. Cut out the base. Center the candleholders on it, and drive a long countersunk screw up through each to secure it.

Wrap the centerpiece with a few loops of coarse rope to add a dash of texture to the project. We adhered the rope to itself and to the candleholders with thick CA glue. Apply finish to the base, then drop a candle into each hole to enjoy this bit of rustic ambiance!

The post PROJECT: Rustic Candle Centerpiece appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Given the popularity of projects made from slab lumber, the number of scraps in our shops with live edges are becoming more numerous. You could always slice off the waney edge, but that organic shape is all the rage right now, so keep it and use it in a gift.

Our example here is almost 2″ thick, but slimmer stock will suffice. Much thinner than 3/4″ may be too thin. We cut one of the blank’s edges flat and squared up both ends to more dramatically show off the waney, live edge.

After cutting the ends square to one another, there are only a couple more steps to completing the serving board. First, form finger recesses on the bottom edge of the board. These will allow you to easily pick up the board from a flat surface. Then comes sanding. Sand the show faces up to at least 320-grit. With that done, cut out four small feet.

Ours are 3/8″ x 1/2″ x 1″ … made of maple. Glue them to the bottom of the serving tray. These visually lift the board from flat surfaces, which adds to the “machined” impression of the waney edged board.

Lastly, you need to select and apply the finish. We recommend either butcher block oil (a refined mineral oil) or something like walnut oil. Both are food safe, but both will need to be refreshed every so often.

Now slice some cheese, break out the crackers and enjoy!

The post PROJECT: Substantial Serving Tray appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The post How to Apply Wood Veneer appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.