B+D SMARTECH

Last summer, BLACK + DECKER launched its 20-volt SMARTECH lithium-ion batteries that are compatible with the company’s 20V MAX* tool line and retail for around $79. These compact batteries use Bluetooth® Technology to connect with the SMARTECH mobile app. Once you’ve paired the battery to the app with your tablet or innovations that will enable us to interact with lithium-ion batteries, cordless tools and measuring devices in groundbreaking ways. If you’ve ever wanted more security, customization and data reporting from your tools, these companies now offer free iOS or Android-friendly apps that expand the versatility of select new products. Here’s a sampling of some of this “connected” tool wizardry. smartphone, it offers helpful diagnostic and security features. The app will inform you about each battery’s current charge level and provide a host of stats, including model and serial number, date code and when it was last paired with the app. Within Bluetooth range (around 100 ft.), you can locate your SMARTECH battery with your device — the battery beeps loudly until you stop the search. Another tap of the app enables you to lock the battery, deactivating it from unauthorized use. They also have a handy USB port on top to recharge your mobile devices.

The app links to B+D’s website, where you can find a library of free DIY and woodworking project plans, plus much more.

DeWALT ToolConnect

DeWALT also has a pair of 20V MAX* XR Bluetooth-enabled batteries in 2.0 Ah compact ($99) and 4.0 Ah ($139) sizes. They’re fully compatible with its extensive 20V MAX* tool family.

DeWALT’s Tool Connect app pairs to these batteries easily with current smart devices, and each battery can be custom-named. The app offers a similar package of battery-specific identification and diagnostic tools as SMARTECH: serial and model number, date code and last pairing date, charge level at present and current battery temperature.

But, unlike SMARTECH’s DIY/consumer-intended focus, DeWALT’s Tool Connect program is geared to jobsite tool concerns and inventory management. For instance, within Bluetooth range, a Tool Connect user can be alerted when batteries are out of range, and users can set them to disable beyond this perimeter. You can also set alerts for low charge warnings or charging status, and temperature extremes. There’s even a “Lend” feature: the app’s calendar and clock can tell a battery to disable when its assigned loaned period expires. Then, the battery becomes inoperable and unchargeable by the borrower, and the lender receives a reminder alert. This much tracking information isn’t as relevant for hobbyists, but imagine a jobsite running dozens of DeWALT batteries. There, inventory control is a daily concern, where Tool Connect can bring peace of mind.

Milwaukee ONE-KEY

In 2015, Milwaukee launched its ONE-KEY mobile app and a number of ONE-KEY tools. With them, the company adopted a different strategy from either B+D or DeWALT’s approach: instead of enhancing batteries with Bluetooth connectivity, the tools themselves have Bluetooth. ONE-KEY tools operate on any M18 Milwaukee battery, and the ONE-KEY app interfaces with the tool, regardless of the battery it’s using.

Currently, Milwaukee’s M18 FUEL ONE-KEYenabled tools include a 1/2″ drill/driver and hammer drill/driver, 1/4″ hex impact driver, 3/8″ and 1/2″ impact wrenches, several crimping tools and a SAWZALL® Reciprocating Saw. There’s also a RADIUS LED Site Light that operates on either a battery or corded power. Milwaukee’s app offers a full complement of data tracking and security features. Once the app pairs to a tool, it logs serial number, date of purchase and current mapped location, along with any notes the owner wishes to add. This information stores to the cloud and can be retrieved for online and mobile record keeping. And, if a tool in the ONEKEY inventory should go missing, a user can report it as missing in the app. Then, any device with the ONEKEY app will update the tool’s location when it comes into Bluetooth range, and the owner will receive an e-mail report of its whereabouts.

But inventory tracking is just one benefit of ONEKEY. The app also allows these tools to be custom programmed by the end user for specialized or often-used tasks. Here’s an example: Maybe you use a recip saw to cut cast-iron waste pipe some days, demolition materials on other days, then 4×6 timbers and sheet steel on occasion. Using the app, ONE-KEY SAWZALL (model 2721-20, $249) can be set for up to four different cutting “profiles” that best suit these varied materials. Starting and maximum speeds, trigger ramp-up time and even the tool’s onboard LED work light duration all can be set and stored, then saved and used independently of the app. A push button selector on the tool indicates which of the four modes you’ve chosen. Using your custom profiles can help the saw cut more efficiently or safely and even extend blade life.

Same goes for other ONEKEY tools: the 1/2″ Drill/Driver (model 2705-20, $179) is programmable for various drill bit styles, diameters and materials being drilled. The app then adjusts the tool for optimal drilling speed and torque shutoff, which you can save as one of four custom profiles. The ONEKEY 1/4″ Hex Impact Driver (model 2757-20, $179) lets you select the sizes and head types of self-tapping screws or concrete anchors you’re planning to drive; the app responds by adjusting starting, driving and finishing speeds accordingly.

Milwaukee’s ONE-KEY RADIUS LED Site Light (item 2146-20, $349) will brighten up dark spaces with up to 4,400 lumens, either standing on its base or hanging inverted from a self-centering metal hook. With the app, you can turn the light on or off, activate all 360° of its LED array or just one side at a time, and then adjust intensity to suit your needs. When the light is plugged into an extension cord instead of a tool battery, you can schedule it for automatic on/off cycles or daisy-chain it to other RADIUS lights.

RYOBI Phone Works

RYOBI offers a line of seven lime-green inspection and measuring gadgets that make up its Phone Works device family. Currently, Phone Connect includes laser pointer, level and distance measurers, noise-suppression earphones, a thermometer, moisture meter and inspection scope.

Most of these tools require your smartphone or tablet as an integral component to their operation. It serves as a display screen for what is being measured or viewed by the Phone Works instrument, and you can take still photos or videos of your subject, then superimpose the data onto it for record keeping. RYOBI has designed the Phone Works app to allow you to create “projects” on your phone or tablet and synthesize all of your data and photos or videos into a single folder to share with others by email or on social media.

I gave the Inspection Scope (model ES5000; $67.48) and Infrared Thermometer (model ES2000; $39.97) a try. The Inspection Scope pairs to a mobile device using Wi-Fi rather than Bluetooth, and it features a 3-ft. flexible cable with a tiny camera on the end. Four LED lights surround the lens to help lighten up dark areas. My iPhone 6S, with a full case, fit securely onto the back of the device — both the scope and the thermometer come with a spring-loaded, adjustable clip that holds many sizes of smartphones (even big ones like mine).

In use, the image and video resolution was quite pixelated on my phone’s screen, especially when viewing things in dark spaces, but I could still get the gist of what I was seeing pretty well. The device also seems to deplete AA batteries fast. But, if you wish you could peer inside your machines without taking them apart, wonder what might be clogging a sink drain or need to take a look under shop fixtures, the couch or a car seat to find something gone missing, this doodad could be your second set of eyes.

RYOBI’s Infrared Thermometer plugs into a device’s headphone jack and functioned simply and reliably — in just a few app taps, its Class 3 laser will be pointing a beam and taking a continuous temperature reading where you aim it. It has a range of -22° to 662°F. Save the reading by tapping one button. Here could be a neat way to keep tabs on your tool motor heat output, check windows and doors for drafts or even investigate the efficiency of your home’s HVAC duct system.

General Tools ToolSmart

General Tools & Instruments also has a collection of Bluetooth-enabled measuring devices that include a laser distance measurer, angle finder, two versions of inspection cameras, digital multimeter, infrared thermometer and moisture meter. A ToolSmart app enhances their features and offers a similar “project” system to RYOBI’s for organizing and sharing data. The tools can be used without the app, too.

I tried the Digital Angle Finder (model TS02, $49.98). It works like a digital protractor to measure angles up to 225°. Here’s what makes it unique: you can send the angle reading (between two walls, for instance) to your mobile device without writing it down — handy if you’re up on a ladder. Then, the app can tell you the correct miter and bevel angles for setting up a miter saw to cut moldings and crown. This sure beats trial and error!

Or consider the Laser Distance Measurer (model TS01, $69.98): like most distance finders, it uses a laser to help you chart lengths. This one tabulates area and perimeter, volume and triangulated distances. However, the app makes the tool even more practical for DIY jobs. Measure and send it the lengths and widths of walls, floors or ceilings, and the app will calculate the amount of paint, wallpaper, molding or flooring your area will require. No need to crunch the math.

If you often wonder about your lumber’s moisture content but don’t have a way to check it — and we all should — the ToolSmart pin style Moisture Meter (model TS06, $39.99) can solve the conundrum. I wish it came with an adjustment chart for different wood species and temperature factors — other meters do. But it will give you a quick ballpark percentage to verify if your wood is dry enough for woodworking. It will assess building materials like drywall, too.

Smart devices and apps have quickly become an indelible part of our culture. You can be sure that their role in power tool technology will only grow with time.

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The Bodgers

Dating back to at least 1700, the bodgers were itinerant English craftsmen living in the beech forests that covered the Chiltern Hills around High Wycombe, a town northwest of London in Buckinghamshire County. They felled the beech trees around their hut, bucked and rived billets from them, then turned Windsor chair spindles on pole lathes. They also wove very sturdy baskets from the green wood. Once they exhausted the trees around their hut, they moved their abode deeper into the forest. The bodgers were a viable trade up into the early 20th century. In modern times, the term bodger has come to mean an inept craftsman; however, the bodgers of High Wycombe were anything but: they were highly skilled turners. They sold their turnings at the town of Windsor, which is how historians believe the chair got its name.

Wood Shrinks as it Dries

As you can see by the illustration, a green log shrinks about 4% in diameter, the radial shrinkage; while the loss in circumference is about 8%, the tangential shrinkage. Left as a log, stress will build around the rings to the point that the wood will check (crack) in one of two ways. Some woods will develop one or two big cracks running the length of the log; others will develop a myriad of small checks throughout the log.

There is a huge advantage to riven billets: every grain fiber runs parallel end to end. This makes the resulting turning much stronger than one made from a sawn billet, which often has the grain running out the side. While wood is very strong under compression, it is less so along the grain. The sawn billet will fail completely if it splits along the grain, but the riven one will not. This allowed very dainty proportions in Windsor legs and is why early 18th century examples are still sound today.

Riving wood is quite easy. The first order of business is to find a fresh green log of a workable wood. English Windsor chair makers used beech, but here in the Colonies we used maple or birch. If you can find trees of these species, they rive nicely and turn beautifully; they showcase the crisp edges and deep coves typical of the style. You want a log that is from the bole of a straight tree because it will be clear wood, free of knots. Windsor legs require a 20″-long billet, so cut this length from the fresh log. End grain loses water much faster than the rest of the log, which is covered by bark at this juncture. For this reason, the first 6″ or so often is checked and should be cut away for firewood.

To rive a few spindles, you only need a sledgehammer and some wedges. For higher production numbers, a froe is a very handy tool. The important thing to remember as you start to rive the log section is some simple physics. To keep all the splits running true, you have to split equal masses. An off-center split will cause the split to run toward the lighter side, for the heavier side transmits more force back into the wedge than the lighter one. This often means placing the wedge or froe off-center on tapered pieces.

Our forefathers would have taken their freshly riven billets to a shaving horse and used a drawknife to take all of the sharp edges off and get them basically round. They would have then turned them to chair legs, stretchers and arm posts in a pole lathe. While it is fun to use the shaving horse and drawknife, thanks to the electric motor in our lathes we can skip this step if we want to. Just chuck it up and start turning. A good-sized modern spindle roughing-out gouge makes the polygonal billet round in no time at all. You can tell you are round because a continuous ribbon of wood will flow off of a sharp gouge.

The finished spindle will generally have better surface finish than dry wood. Little to no sanding is necessary. As the spindle dries, it will shrink a bit oval and may check for a short distance at each end. Neither affects the utility or strength of the spindle. A dab of green wood sealer on the ends to slow down the rate of water loss from the end grain will virtually negate checking. Once dry, your turning can be sanded and finished in any way you choose. The average viewer will only be able to discern that the spindle is oval by feel. Visually, they look like any spindle.

Spindle turning some green wood is a fun exercise in confidence building. That great stream of shavings coming off any of the tools is a large part of it, I think. It allows a beginner to take risks that they would not take with dry wood. It is a fantastic way to teach children. Give it a try!

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I use a quality polyurethane bag, which is fairly expensive but offers good durability for professional use. For occasional use, a high quality vinyl bag will suffice and cost less.

Commercial Veneers

In this article, I’m using commercially cut raw wood veneers in a species called makore. At only 1/42″ thick, only light sanding can be done on the finished panel, not planing or heavy scraping. You can also cut veneer yourself with a good band saw (more about that shortly).

With commercial veneers, it’s as simple as laying out the veneer sheets in sequence and flipping over every other sheet to achieve a book-match. From a flitch of 24 sheets of veneer, I applied veneer to one side of an MDF panel using just sheet number 5.

The original veneer sheet was long enough to provide two lengths of veneer for my panel, so I simply cut the sheet in half with a veneer saw and rotated one of the halves for the book match. I didn’t even need to flip one sheet over. With veneer this wide, I needed only two pieces with one joint to cover the entire panel on one side.

When using two or more pieces of veneer to cover a substrate, their aligning edges must be perfectly straight to avoid gaps (like a butt joint in thicker stock). I started by jointing the mating edges of the sheets I had cut from the larger original sheet using a common flush-trim router guide.

I sandwiched my two veneer sheets under a simple jig and on top of a sacrificial piece of 1/4″-thick MDF. By allowing the veneers to protrude slightly from the jig, it was easy to trim the edges with a straight bit in a router. To avoid tearout, given the tiny amount of wood being cut, you can safely climb cut.

I can trim a whole stack of veneers at the same time with this method. There’s also an alternative method where I simply place the two veneer sheets against my jointer fence with a hardwood guide at the front. Then I joint the veneers and the solid board together. This works for shorter veneers like I’m using here, but the trim guide is best for long veneers that are unwieldy to handle.

After jointing the edges, I secured the veneers together using blue tape placed across the joint every few inches on the back side. Then I applied veneer tape on the front side, first across the joint and then one long piece along the joint.

This tape has an adhesive on the back so I just run the back over a wet sponge before laying it down. With that done, an iron set to medium heat shrinks the veneer tape as it dries, pulling the joint even tighter. Now remove the blue tape from the back.

Because the veneer lay-up was larger than necessary, I trimmed the outer edges by placing the MDF core over top of it and trimming around the edges with the veneer saw.

The MDF core itself was oversized as well to allow for easy trimming after the glue-up. Sometimes the veneer will shift slightly on the core under vacuum pressure, so it’s best to leave some room for error.

In this case, I also veneered the front edge of the panel with a small offcut of the same veneer, using a clamping caul to distribute the pressure. The face veneer will hide the edge veneer joint.

You can use different kinds of glue for veneering, including plastic powdered resin, epoxy and even regular wood glue, depending on whether you are doing curved work, using paper-backed veneers or raw wood veneers, etc. For my purposes here, cold press veneer glue gives me enough working time (about 10 minutes) for simple flat panels, and it dries within a reasonable time.

I sanded the MDF core with 120-grit sandpaper to knock off any surface glaze. This is not required when using a Baltic birch core. Then I covered the core with dark pencil lines to give me an idea of how much glue to apply with a 6″-wide glue roller.

The glue should be relatively heavy but still allow the pencil lines to show through. Apply glue only to the substrate, and spray the veneers with a light mist of water right after laying them over the glue to prevent them from curling. I taped the veneer to the core with blue tape to keep it in place, making sure it protruded slightly beyond the front edge band. The rear edge and ends can be trimmed to final size later.

I placed the panel in the veneer bag upside down so the veneers are on the 3/4″-thick MDF platen in the bag. Don’t forget that you also need a backer veneer to keep the panel from warping. This can be done as a separate glue-up later with the backer veneer also sitting on the platen side. Or you can veneer both sides at once if you’re quick, placing the front face veneers on the platen (upside down) for the best quality glue-up on the show side.

Given that I used breather mesh on top of the panel, I didn’t need an upper platen, nor did the lower platen need to be grooved for proper evacuation of air from the bag. In the past, most people used both an upper and lower platen for flat veneering, although an upper platen can’t be used with curved work. With the use of breather mesh, though, one can eliminate the upper platen entirely, even with flat work. (I purchased breather mesh from veneersupplies.com.)

I’ve done various experiments to get around bleedthrough, which can occur when the vacuum pressure forces glue right through the veneers, interfering with stains and finishes. From my experiments, I’ve had great success setting the vacuum pressure to just 17 Hg (inches of mercury) for the first 10 minutes and then increasing it to 21 Hg for another 30 to 40 minutes. For more porous veneers such as burls, it’s best to use a powdered plastic resin glue, which really reduces bleed-through.

Remember that the glue-up should not remain in the bag longer than an hour when using cold press veneer glue, as it needs exposure to air for the glue to dry properly. Also, keeping the panel under vacuum for too long with a water-based glue can cause mold spores to grow, producing unsightly stains.

Shop-cut Veneers

Working with shop-cut veneers isn’t that different, except that you cut them yourself. Start by finding a piece of lumber that has no grain reversals or only very minor ones.

Choosing stock with grain switches and unusual figure will cause all kinds of tearout when jointing and planing, unless you have helical cutterheads or a thickness sander. For really highly figured stock, I prefer commercial veneers since they can be flawless right out of the box. Sometimes I need to use liquid veneer softener to flatten badly curled or wavy veneer.

Joint one face and one edge of the stock and bring the second edge to final width with a table saw and thickness planer. Then cut a sheet of veneer off on the band saw, rejoint the face of the blank, and cut another sheet of veneer. By jumping between jointer and band saw, you can cut multiple sheets of veneer that are already smooth on one side and both edges (you’ll still need to rejoint edges before taping to get really tight joints).

A few quick passes through the thickness planer with an auxiliary bed brings them to final thickness. I’d suggest veneers at l east 1/16″ thick, though I prefer 3/32″, which allows me to do some hand planing an scraping on the finished panels if necessary.

Be sure to make similar thickness veneers for the back, using a less expensive species if you like. I don’t recommend 3/32″ face veneers and 1/42″ commercial backer veneers because the panel needs to have a balanced veneer thickness to resist warping.

The panel I glued up here is no different than the one with commercial veneers except that I used narrower pieces requiring three joints. I also flipped every other piece of veneer to get my book-match. Other than needing a lot more tape, the process is much the same.

In this case, I didn’t veneer any edges, which wouldn’t be necessary when making a panel for a frame-and-panel door, for example. I also used a Baltic birch core instead of MDF, which lightens the weight and eliminates the need to sand the core material. Another suitable core material would be particleboard. Baltic birch is nicer to work with, but not as flat and consistent in thickness as particleboard and MDF.

Conclusion

While I’ve used veneered plywood my entire career, I only did my own veneering on occasion on very small panels using lot of clamps and clamping cauls.

Owning a vacuum pump certainly makes veneering easier and opens up a lot of possibilities with exotic, highly figured veneers, such as pomelle figured sapele panels, which are just gorgeous.

As an added benefit, I also regularly use the vacuum pump to glue two 1/4″ sheets of veneered plywood back-to-back when I need 3/8″ to 1/2″ ply. I find that 1/4″ and 3/4″ ply is widely available, but in-between sizes are harder to find. Give a vacuum pump a try, and I think you’ll be hooked in no time.

Hendrik Varju is a fine furniture designer/craftsman who provides private woodworking instruction, seminars and DVD courses. His business, Passion for Wood, is located near Toronto, Canada. See www.passionforwood.com.

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Most Murphy bed designs these days require a wooden box to capture the mattress (no box spring is used). My design is super simple and eliminates a lot of the work involved with building one of these other styles. The key is a complete hardware kit from Rockler that includes a metal bed frame with a pneumatic lift system and a wooden slat platform that acts like a box spring. If you decide to build one or both of the side cabinets shown here, this project offers plenty of additional shelf and cabinet storage, too.

I made my queen-size Murphy Bed using birch lumber and birch plywood because its tight grain is great to paint. And to that end, you’ll see later that I’ve applied “modern” milk paint (no milk required!) to the birch, followed by two coats of clear flat (sheen) water based finish to add durability and luster. But if you’d prefer a “natural” wood look instead, or want to match this project to existing trimwork, any species and finish will be good substitutes for birch. It’s up to you.

Of course, not everyone needs a queen-size bed, so material lists for twin and full-size beds are available in the “More on the Web” online content for this project. Rockler sells twin- and full-size Murphy Bed hardware kits as well.

Construction Notes

In addition to the usual woodworking machines and router bits, to build this bed you’ll also need a pocket-hole jig, biscuit jointer and a few other specialized items: a 35 mm drill bit, shelf pin drilling jig and an inset hinge baseplate drilling jig. You’ll also need a dozen or so 18″ bar clamps, a few 7′ pipe clamps and at least 20 medium-size Rockler Bandy Clamps or other three-way edge clamps if you want to speed up clamping the edging strips to the plywood.

Here’s a rough account of sheet goods, wood and molding you’ll need: for the bed cabinet, buy four full sheets of 3/4″ plywood, 30 board feet of birch and 10 lineal feet of 41⁄4″-wide crown molding. Each of the side cabinets will require one full sheet of 3/4″ plywood, one 2′ x 8′ half sheet of 1/4″ plywood and 3 board feet of birch.

While this is a large project, it’s not hard to build. However, it does require a big workspace when you get to the pre-finish assembly of the bed cabinet and frame. A one-stall garage or similarly sized workshop should be enough space to tackle this project. I’ve designed the bed cabinet to be knockdown, because it’s so large that in almost every instance it would be too big to maneuver from your shop into the room where it will be mounted. You’ll use biscuits (no glue) to align most of the joints and pocket screws to assemble the knockdown parts.

Be prepared to cut away baseboard where you plan to mount the bed and side cabinets to your wall. Also, aside from being dangerous if not mounted securely to wall studs, the bed will not function properly either. You must use the “bed-to-wall” brackets included in the hardware kit.

Assembling the Bed Cabinet

Let’s get started by cutting the bed cabinet box pieces 1 through 5 to size, according to the Material List dimensions. Now rip and crosscut thin strips of solid stock for the edging (pieces 10 through 12), and glue and clamp it to the cabinet’s exposed plywood edges. Use bar clamps to secure the 3/4″-thick edging and Bandy Clamps or other three-way edge clamps for the 1/8″-thick edging. Once these glue joints dry, use a sander to bring the edging flush to the plywood faces.

Now pull out your biscuit joiner and cut #20 biscuit slots in the ends of the top, bottom and back pieces. Lay out the mating slots for those you’ve just made on the inside faces of the side panels, and cut these slots, too.

All of these biscuit locations will help align the parts during final assembly, but they aren’t what actually holds the joints together. For that, we’ll use pocket screws. Drill the pocket screw holes on the ends of the top, bottom and back pieces. You’ll also need screw holes along the rear edges of the top and bottom panels to join them to the upper and lower back pieces.

Take the cabinet side panels over to your drill press to bore 3/8″-dia. x 1/2″-deep holes for the bed frame mounting plates’ threaded inserts (see Drawing for their locations). The inserts will stand proud of the face of the plywood. Once those are done, finish-sand the inside faces of the sides, then drive in the threaded inserts. Attach the two mounting plates with the wafer head hex drive bolts provided in the kit.

That done, it’s time to put some pieces together! Go ahead and dry-assemble (no glue) the bed cabinet box using biscuits, flathead screws and pocket screws. Install the cleat (piece 18) inside the bed cabinet’s top panel by screwing that in place.

You can also assemble the bed frame, following the instructions included in the hardware kit. Now round up a helper so you can test the frame’s fit in the bed cabinet. Review how the pistons mount, but don’t attach them yet.

Adding a Crown

Measure the overall top of the bed cabinet so you can cut the crown panel (piece 7) to size, but don’t install it now. Instead, we’ll cut the three pieces of crown molding (pieces 8) to fit around its front and sides, while this panel is still easy to reach. If you’ve never installed crown before, or if it’s been a while, take a deep breath and pause. The last thing you want to do is mess up these cuts and waste some expensive crown molding. The simplest way to cut the crown’s compound-mitered corners is to use a miter saw and set the molding against the saw’s table and fence as if they were the corner of a wall and ceiling — pretend the fence is the wall and the table is the ceiling. Rockler sells a jig to help, and there are many online videos that explain the setup. I recommend cutting and fitting the long front piece first, making it a bit oversized and then trimming it to fit. Once it’s dialed in for length, you can cut the two side pieces. Glue and brad-nail the crown to the edges of the crown panel. Then make up two braces (pieces 9) to support the crown from behind. Attach them with more brads and glue. With this work done, position the crown and pre-drill for its attachment screws.

Making the Bed Frame Door

When the bed is stored upright, its frame is concealed behind a paneled door, which we’ll build next. Do that by cutting the two main panels (pieces 6) to size. Now rip and crosscut the door’s trim (pieces 13 to 17) from solid stock. Lay out and cut biscuit joints to dry-assemble these trim pieces into a divided frame. Attach the door panels to the back of the frame with countersunk flathead wood screws. Once the door is put together, your tape measure will show you that the margins between its final size and bed frame are intentionally generous: there will be between 1/4″ and 5/16″ gaps on the sides and top. The bottom gap to the floor will be 1-1⁄8″. These margins will ensure good clearance when the bed is opened or closed.

Wrap up the bed cabinet construction by making the cleat (piece 18), but don’t install it in the bed cabinet now — we’ll do that during final installation. Ease all exposed sharp edges of the door and bed cabinet with a sanding block, then disassemble the door and cabinet and finish-sand their exposed faces and edges to 150-grit.

Building the Side Cabinets

With this design, you can build one or both side cabinets based on your needs and available space. They attach to the bed cabinet with hidden screws driven through pocket screw holes drilled in their top panels, and by adding more screws under the divider and behind the cabinet doors.

Start by cutting the plywood components (pieces 19 to 23) to size. Make the birch edging (pieces 27), and glue them to the exposed edges of the appropriate parts. Then use a 1/4″ rabbet bit, or a straight bit and fence to rout the 1/4″-wide x 1/2″-deep rabbets along the rear edges of the side panels to house the back panels.

Next, lay out and cut biscuit joints to connect the tops, bottoms, dividers and sides. Make sure the door openings will be exactly 23-1⁄2″ tall when you lay out these biscuit slots, taking into account the fact that 3/4″ thick plywood is almost always less than 3/4″.

Since the divider-to-cabinet-side biscuit joints aren’t located along the ends of the cabinet sides but midway, you’ll cut them in two separate machine setups. Your biscuit jointer manual should explain how to make these “face-to-edge” biscuit joints, or you can find more information on the Internet.

Next, drill rows of 5 mm-dia. shelf pin holes in the side panels for the upper shelves as well as for the shelves behind the doors. Drill the hinge baseplate mounting holes, too. I set my cabinets up so the right-hand cabinet doors pivot on the left side, and the left-hand cabinet doors pivot on the right side. Drill pocket screw holes in the end of the top panel that will be closest to the bed cabinet (these screws will serve as cabinet-to-cabinet attachments). Finish-sand the inside faces of the cabinet components, then assemble the parts with biscuits, glue and clamps.

Cut a plywood panel for each cabinet door, and wrap it with more 1/8″ hardwood edging to hide the edge plys. Mount the hinges and hinge baseplates, then test-fit the doors in the cabinets. While they’re hung, attach the door stops (pieces 26) now, too. When all is set, remove the stops, hinges and baseplates. Cut the back panels (pieces 25) to fit the carcass openings. Finish-sand the doors and ease their sharp edges.

Applying the Two-part Finish

If you’ve never used milk paint before, you’ll find it similar to latex wall paint in how it looks wet and how it’s applied, but the end result is a finer, more durable finish. White milk paint will be considerably thicker than darker colors, like the gray I’ve used here. This is normal. I applied two coats of either white or gray to the exposed surfaces using a small paint roller to get it on super fast, and then smoothed the finish by lightly brushing it with a 4″ synthetic paint brush. Sand between coats with 320-grit paper. Use a 1-1⁄2″ synthetic “sash” paint brush to apply the paint to the inside corners of the side cabinets. Follow the same procedures to apply two coats of clear topcoat.

Bed Assembly and Setup

When the finish thoroughly dries, move the big components to where they will be installed. Assemble the bed cabinet with pocket screws, and install the crown on top of it with countersunk screws. Now measure, cut and remove the baseboard from the wall area where the cabinets will be mounted. Here’s a suggestion: remove baseboard for the bed cabinet first, mount the cabinet, and then scribe and cut away more baseboard to allow for the side cabinets.

You’re now ready to attach the bed cabinet to the wall. Install a few screws through the lower back panel, and attach the “L” bed-to-wall brackets included in the hardware kit. It is absolutely critical for safety that these bed-to-wall brackets are positioned over wall studs and screwed into them securely.

Following the hardware kit instructions, set the bed frame in place on the mounting plates and install the pistons. Reassemble the bed frame door. Attach the center pulls to it with four #8-32 x 2″ machine bolts, and then attach the metal door brackets to the back of the door. Now hang the door on the bed frame. Be absolutely certain it is centered side-to-side by measuring the space on each side between the bed frame and door edge. Check at the top and bottom, too, so you know it’s square. You can correct any door-to-cabinet height issues by shimming under the upper door brackets, or by repositioning them. When all is set, insert the other screws that lock the door in place on the bed frame. You can correct minor misalignment of the door and cabinet by repositioning the bed-to-wall “L” brackets and shifting the cabinet in and out, and side-to-side.

Lastly, turn your attention to the side cabinets. If you haven’t done so already, fasten the back panels into their rabbets. Attach the cabinets to the bed cabinet and wall: drive 1-1⁄4″-long pocket screws through the side cabinet tops into the bed cabinet, and add screws inside the side cabinets behind the doors as needed. Fasten wood cleats at the top of the side cabinets to secure them to the wall with screws. Hang the cabinet doors, install the shelves, and you’re done! Now, I bet you know just the spot for a well-deserved nap.

Click Here to download a PDF of the related drawings.

Hard to Find Hardware

Bed Cabinet

Murphy Bed Queen-Size Hardware Kit #54386
Amerock Stainless Steel Bar Pull 256mm #26074
Medium Rockler Bandy Clamps #54258
Bench Dog® Crown-Cut #23238
Kreg R3 Pocket Hole System #22708
GF Milk Paint, Driftwood #55098
GF Milk Paint, Snow White #35877
GF Flat Water-Based Polyurethane #59861

Side Cabinet

Blum® Soft-Close 110° Inset Hinges #34807
Nickel 5mm Shelf Pin Supports #22898
Amerock Stainless Steel Bar Pull 192mm #23331
JIG-IT®Hinge Plate Template for Inset Door Hinges #56585
Rockler #6 Self-Centering Bit #68991
JIG-IT Shelving Jig w/Self-Centering Bit #35151
FastCap Euro Door Stops for Inset Doors #45201
GF Milk Paint, Snow White (2.5 pints) #35877
GF Flat Water-Based Polyurethane (.5 quart) #59861

The post PROJECT: Murphy Bed appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The key design features include a prominent horizontal grain pattern wrapping all three faces and graduated drawers. To give the piece less of a built-in look, it is elevated off the floor on a set of adjustable chrome legs. Inside, drawers wrap around the sink bowl and plumbing supply and drain lines, providing easier access and making better use of the space.

Since this vanity was going into a master bath, I raised the height slightly, to 36 inches at the counter, a much more comfortable height for most adults.

This particular piece has quartersawn walnut plywood for the show parts of the cabinet, although the same effect can be had with a number of other woods in a rift or quartersawn pattern. And although it looks like there are six individual drawers, there are only three banks; the false fronts are split down the middle for more pleasing proportions and reveals.

Build the Carcass First

In my view, there is no faster and stronger way to build furniture than with Festool Dominos. The tooling is a bit pricey, but I’ve gotten my money’s worth out of this machine a few times over. That said, pocket-hole joinery or biscuits are great options, too.

The carcass requires most of one sheet of furniture-grade 3/4″ plywood for the sides and false drawer fronts. The bottom is built with less costly 3/4″ birch, and the back and drawer bottoms require 1/2″-thick birch plywood.

To work with plywood, I long ago gave up on a table saw. For one, my workspace is too small to keep a dedicated cabinet saw with the requisite large outfeed table. Two, it’s always easier to bring the tool to a heavy piece of material than the other way around. My cutting tool of choice is a track saw. The best of these machines will give you perfect, tearout-free cuts in one pass.

Trick to Accurate, Repeatable Cuts

There is no shortage of track saw accessories to help make all types of cuts with a high degree of accuracy. I’m not in that deep with gadgets (yet) and have found a number of workarounds. Unlike a table saw fence, a basic track saw and guide rail have no means to ensure accurate repeatable cuts when cutting multiple components. Setting up the guide rail for each cut using a tape measure leaves a margin for error. I have two cheap solutions: an adjustable drywall square and drill bit.

I use the drywall tool like a woodworker’s combination square to set the guide rail in place for repeatable cuts of large components. First, use a tape measure and mark the width of the cut to be made. Then position the guide rail (saw blade side) right on that mark. Now set the adjustable leg of the drywall square for the distance between the stock edge and guide rail (for narrow pieces, a combination square is all you need). Fine-tune the position of the guide rail by using the square to check the position fore and aft. It usually takes a bit of fiddling.

Given their intended purpose, a drywall square isn’t a precision instrument like a woodworker’s combination square, so use your finer tools to check the big brother for square when setting up and occasionally during use.

While one can use a drywall square or a framing square to align a guide rail perpendicular to an edge, there is a chance that for a long cut, the rail may be positioned off just a hair, so that’s why I use the above-mentioned method for cuts longer than 16″ or so. Experiment and see what works for you. When cutting parts with 90° corners, I regularly check the diagonals to make sure error hasn’t crept in.

Now for the drill bit tip: To make a matching rip cut to an already cut component, take the finished piece, line it up with a good edge of the sheet good to be cut, then place a drill bit the size of the saw’s kerf (3/32″ is pretty close) between the guide rail’s cutting edge and the finished workpiece.

Note: This technique is only as accurate as the saw guide rail’s replaceable splinterguard. If it’s beat up, replace it.

Making the Cuts

For clean cuts, plywood needs a flat, stable support surface underneath. One easy solution is to place a piece of rigid foam on the ground as a cutting table. For a more comfortable and durable solution, I built a collapsible cutting grid out of two-by-fours. (I got the idea from builder Mike Sloggatt, who has a YouTube channel with other DIY tips.)

To get the wraparound grain effect for this cabinet, lay out the parts according to the Diagram. Basically, imagine unfolding and flattening the front and sides of the cabinet and lay out accordingly. These are the most critical cuts, so take time to think it through and measure carefully. Cut off the factory edges of the plywood if they’re chipped or marred in any way.

While an 8-ft long saw guide rail could be handy, I still haven’t invested in one. Plywood cabinet components are typically no longer than three or four feet, usually less, so a long rail isn’t needed.

I start by ripping off the section I won’t be needing, then crosscutting the sides, leaving them a hair taller than what I’ll need for their final dimension.

Next, I stack the two side pieces, and cut them at once to the desired height. Stacking ensures a perfect match. Remember to set and reset your saw for different depths of cut. I usually set the saw to cut about 1/8″ deep into the cutting grid below the workpiece.

Rip the drawer fronts to their respective heights, allowing for the thickness of edge banding. You want the top drawer a hair below the front edge of the cabinet. Leave the drawer fronts as three pieces for now; crosscut them to final size after the carcass is assembled in case of any slight deviations from the plan. In general, this is a good practice. Build and measure in stages. Accept a little adjustment here or there. Don’t be a slave to a cutting list.

Cut two top rails for the carcass and the bottom, all at the exact same length. Here is where I used a case side to set up the guide rail (using a drill bit to mark the kerf) to ensure the bottom and rails were identical in length.

Next, cut rabbets in the sides, bottom and rear top rail to accept the back panel.

Then, cut the joinery for the carcass. I used Dominos, size 5 mm by 30 mm, for all the joints. Dry-fit the cabinet and prepare the pipe clamps (a helper comes in handy at this point, as this is a large cabinet, and it’s a lot easier for two people to work together on assembly than to try to do it all by your lonesome). Then I measured for the back panel and cut it 1/16″ undersize.

Next, attach the edge banding to the front edges of the cabinet. Be gentle when trimming the banding to avoid marring the good face of the plywood.

Finish off with a very light sanding to ease the edges. The case sides also get a light hand sanding, with the grain. Remember that plywood skins are thin.

At this juncture, there are two ways to go. The cabinet can be glued up, and finish can wait until all the components are ready. Or, the carcass parts can be finished before assembly, laid flat, to avoid runs and drips.

I prefer the latter method. I only worry about the outside faces; a less-than-perfect finish on the inside won’t matter, as drawers will eventually hide any slight flaws.

Once the show faces are finished, glue up the cabinet and enjoy the first big accomplishment. For legs, I used chrome corner legs with adjustable feet. The front legs can be flush to both edges of the cabinet, but for the rear, be sure to set them inward enough to allow for a baseboard.

Tips on Using the Domino Joiner

I’ve used the Domino to join everything from large cases to doors, drawers and furniture legs. The machine has a lot of great options to make work fast and accurate.

For example, retractable pins on the face allow for automatically starting mortises from the edge of a workpiece, then spacing mortises apart at even intervals. This often works fine, but sometimes those registration points fall in the wrong place. When I need to mark locations manually, I make up a marking tool (story stick) with centerlines for all mortises.

When using the marking tool, remember to always measure from a common edge. For example, when making drawers, register the stick to common edges (i.e., top OR bottom) of all parts and keep in mind the location of the dado for the bottom panel. Also, when cutting the mortises, be sure to always register the machine to common faces of the parts (outside is most common for case goods and drawers). Last, always make test cuts; not all joints can be cut to the same depth. For example, when building the drawers, I had to cut deeper mortises on the fronts and backs, and shallower mortises on the sides, so that I wouldn’t cut through the 5/8″-thick material.

It’s a good idea to have a little wiggle room for assembly, especially when there are long rows of mortises. If just one is off, that can wreak havoc during glue-up. To solve that, cut mortises for one set of mating parts at a slightly wider setting. That allows parts to be shifted a bit for perfect alignment, much like with biscuit joints. For cabinet cases and drawers, this method will not compromise the strength of the joint. I would not recommend it for table or chair legs, where the joints should be spot-on due to racking forces during the lifetime of the piece.

In preparation for glue-up, I prefer to first glue the Dominos into one set of parts and let the glue set. That way, I can check for squeeze-out and go through a stress free dry-fit.

It’s not uncommon for something on a large case to be off just a hair; pounding on the joint or reefing on a clamp can break parts. Use a chisel or file to fine-tune any Dominos that don’t easily find home or are proud. But don’t overdo it. Parts should fit snugly.

Measure For; Build the Drawers

From the outside, there is no hint of how differently all three drawers are built. The top bank is a set of two individual boxes joined by an additional full-width false front; the center bank is U-shaped; and the bottom one is a traditional rectangular box but with a cutout at the rear to clear the P-trap.

Before going down this route, it’s best if the plumbing is centered (or close-to) with the cabinet centerline and compactly positioned (water supply lines close to the drain line). That way, the design can be symmetrical and drawers can be of a generous size. But it’s not a deal breaker if things don’t line up perfectly; the drawers can be sized asymmetrically. It may not be worth the cost to reroute plumbing only a few inches.

Before starting, it’s best to have on hand all the other parts: counter, sink, drain and supply lines. I chose a one piece counter with integrated sink, but the options are endless. To consistently mark all the parts and have all the dimensions of plumbing components at hand, I made up a story stick. Don’t forget to account for a change in floor height if the final floor is not yet in place. Design the drawers accordingly. I leave a good inch or more clearance on each side around the sink bowl and plumbing.

I used soft maple for the drawers, planed down to 5/8″ thickness (maximum for my slides). Because of the large size of the bottom two drawers, I wouldn’t recommend 1/2″-thick premade plywood drawer components as they aren’t as stiff as solid wood. Drawer bottoms are all 1/2″-thick plywood.

I used Dominos for joining the sides to the backs, and dadoes to connect the bottoms. You could also use dovetails or another method of joinery you choose.

The center drawer takes a little more effort to build accurately. The trick is to first build and dry-fit the box without the bottom. Then check for square and measure for the U-shaped bottom, and cut it shy about 1/16″ all around to leave a little wiggle room. During glue-up, assemble the center section first, then position the front face and attach the ends.

Regarding milling marks and other flaws: To save effort, I don’t spend a lot of time sanding parts that won’t show, such as the back sides of drawers or the outside face of the false fronts, which in this case had terrible tearout from the planer. I put all my effort into the parts that can be seen, such as the drawer insides and, of course, the outside of the case. Remember, the plywood drawer fronts will cover up any imperfections on those parts of the drawers.

Once the drawers are glued up, I set the slides — in this case Blum Tandem with Blumotion. The slides have a nice self-close feature as well as some adjustability after installation. The most import aspects of installation, besides not accidentally drilling through the case sides, are making sure that pairs of slides are at the same height, perpendicular to the case edge and with the proper setback. I use a story stick instead of a tape measure for reliability. But don’t stress too much; misplaced slides can be easily repositioned. A few extra screw holes inside the cabinet will not be seen by anyone except the plumber. Plus, the Blum slides have micro adjusters to allow for a little tweaking after all parts are assembled.

Finishing the Piece

I used two products to finish the piece: General Exterior 450 semigloss water-based finish, and General Seal-a-Cell Clear wipe-on sealer.

First, sand all the parts to 180-grit, then vacuum the dust and wipe down using a rag lightly dampened with alcohol. In between coats of the sealer and topcoat, sand with 240-grit or 320-grit.

The sealer is not water-based and it reduces the amount of grain-raising as well as warms up the tone of the walnut. I used two coats of it on the show faces. This product is easy to wipe on with a rag. Give it 48 hours to fully dry before going to the top coat.

For the top coat, the General 450 finish can be sprayed or brushed (use a foam brush). I tried both methods and was impressed with how easy the product laid down. Use two coats minimum for a good water-resistant finish.

One tip regarding finishing, whether by spray or brush, to eliminate runs: Apply the finish to all show faces of parts as they are laid out flat, before you assemble the project. Be sure to wipe off any drips along the edges. If you’re finishing your surfaces with joinery, make sure to tape off those regions before you apply the finish.

Installing False Fronts

There are any number of ways to install false fronts. For example, a product called drawer front adjusters allows for some wiggle room once attached. You can also use 1/2″ double-sided weather-resistant tape, which has amazing holding capacity, and washer head screws.

If you choose this route, start by marking the locations for screws to hold the false fronts in place, keeping in mind the eventual location of drawer pulls. Drill four oversized holes per false front.

I prefer to install one false front at a time. Place two small pieces of double- sided tape on the drawer front and set the false front in place, eyeballing the first one, then using some sort of spacers for the subsequent ones. Attach it with two washer head screws. Continue until all drawer fronts are in place. Then I remove them, peel off the tape (it holds so well that it’s tough to make fine adjustments) and reattach. At this time, I make the final adjustments for even reveals and gaps. Sometimes I need to enlarge a few holes even more. Once I’m satisfied, I add the other two screws to each drawer. It goes without saying: use screws 1/4″ shorter than the total thickness of the false fronts and drawers, and remember that the top drawer will need longer screws where the box and additional false front meet up. Don’t mix up those different length screws!

Install the pulls of your choice once everything is lined up. Then pull out the drawers, take the piece into the bathroom and mark and cut the plumbing holes. Last, attach the back to the wall at stud locations using at least four long screws.

You’ve now got a fine-looking vanity — try not to be too vain about it.

Click Here to download a PDF of the related drawings.

Hard to Find Hardware

24” x 48” Walnut Plywood, 3/4″ Thick #49934
24” x 48” Maple Plywood, 3/4” Thick #45301
Walnut 15/16″ Peel & Stick Edge Banding, 50’ Roll #1074185
Blum Tandem Full Extension 18″ Drawer Slides #47648
Contemporary Metal Furniture Legs #35955
Drawer Front Adjuster #28936
FastCap Quad Edge Banding Trimmer #45318
General Finishes Exterior 450 Varnish #33028
General Finishes Original Seal-A-Cell Clear #56507

– Anatole Burkin, former editor and publisher of Fine Woodworking, is a freelance journalist and woodworker in northern California.

The post PROJECT: Maximum Storage Bathroom Vanity appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The Restorer Kit (PXRA2676KIT) includes a Restorer tool, carry bag, six sanding sleeves, two abrasive sleeves, and 1 rust and paint removal wheel.

The post New Tool Overview: Porter-Cable Restorer appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Murphy Bed: An updated version of the classic space-saving foldaway bed, with optional matching side cabinets.

Bathroom Vanity: A beautiful veneered grain pattern on the false fronts of Anatole Burkin’s bathroom fixture creates the illusion of symmetry. In reality, you can customize the fit of the three graduated drawers to your own house’s plumbing.

Shoe Storage Rack: Store your shoes in style with this red oak storage rack, which also provides benchtop seating. Author Sandor Nagyszalanczy’s tips to combat wood movement come in handy when creating a project from a handsome hardwood.

Thinking-of-You Clock: In this case, two faces aren’t a bad thing: one clock keeps track of your own current time, while the other clock face ticks away the time in a faraway loved one’s locale. You’ll also find a chalkboard inset handy for messages and reminders, plus a place to keep your keys.

Woodturning: Want to turn spindles from green wood? You can, as long as your wood has a complete annular ring. Learn how to harvest wood to get that result, plus tips for turning that green wood spindle.

Technology & Woodworking: Everything’s connected these days – including tools. Chris Marshall introduces you to mobile apps for batteries and power tools that can provide diagnostics, tool tracking, dial-in settings and more.

The post Woodworker’s Journal – March/April 2017 appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

When I finally got around to cleaning up my act, I thought I’d kill two irritating birds with one stone and build a bench that not only provides organized storage for all my shoes, but also affords a handy place to sit down while putting them on and taking them off. The shoe bench I came up with has enough storage space for a dozen pairs of men’s shoes (up to about size 13) or up to 18 pairs of women’s shoes. The shoes sit on open shelves that are adjustable for height, to accommodate different kinds of shoes: dress shoes, sneakers, low-top boots, etc. I added a tall central cubby between the banks of shelves just for my favorite pair of cowboy boots, and a small drawer for shoe cleaning supplies.

However, using solid wood did require some special construction details, to accommodate its natural tendency to expand and contract in response to changes in humidity. I’ll share those tips in this article.

Cut Out and Glue Up

After purchasing enough stock for the project, the first task is to glue up all the wide parts necessary for the bench: the seat, bottom, bulkheads, side panels, drawer support and shelves (see the Material List). For parts that are the same width, such as the side panels, it’s easier to glue up a panel that’s a little more than twice as long, then cut the individual panels to length later. The tip shown in the photo above will help keep a panel flat if it wants to cup. Apply a nice, even coating of glue to all mating edges (I like to use a glue roller to spread the glue out). After clamping, check with a rule to make sure that each panel is nice and flat, and that the mating edges align evenly.

After the glue on each assembly dries to rubbery hardness, scrape off the squeeze-out and any drips that may have formed. Run each panel through a planer to bring it down to its final thickness. If you don’t have access to a planer with a cutterhead wide enough to handle the panels, glue them up from pre-planed stock; just make sure that each panel remains flat after it’s clamped up. Trim each panel to final width and length, taking care to keep all edges straight and square.

Legs, Rails and Side Panels

The sides of the bench are built with frame-and-panel construction. A pair of 1-1/2″ square legs are spanned by a pair of short rails at each end of the bench; long rails connect the end assemblies. These legs are mirror images of each other, left and right front legs and back legs. All rails connect to the legs with loose tenon joints (I used the Festool Domino system for this, but you could substitute mortise-and-tenon or dowel joinery if you wish). Start by cutting the legs and rails to size as per the Material List. To help you keep the orientation of the legs straight during numerous machining operations, mark the top of each one, as shown in the photo.

Chop the mortises for the long rails first, each sized for a 10 mm x 50 mm loose tenon and positioned as shown on the Drawings. Next, on the adjacent face of each leg, chop the mortises for the short rails, positioned as shown in the Drawings. Mortises, centered in both directions, are then chopped into both ends of all four long rails, as well as the lower short rails. Mortises on the upper short rails are offset widthwise as shown, so they won’t intersect the long rail mortises.

Now, using a router table, plow the grooves that hold the bench’s side panels into the legs and short rails. Fit a 1/4″ straight bit (preferably a spiral fluted bit) in the router and set the table’s fence so that there’s 3/8″ between the fence face and the centerline of the bit. Set the bit’s cutting depth to 5/16″ and rout a groove into the top edge of each lower short rail, as well as the bottom edge of each upper short rail.

Next, rout a groove into the legs that will hold the raised side panel. Set the bit’s cutting depth to 5/16″ and the table’s fence face so that there’s 3/4″ to the centerline of the bit. Rout a stopped groove into the same face of each leg as the short rail mortises are on. The groove should only span the distance between the two leg mortises. Using the same 1/4″ bit set to the same cutting depth, rout a groove into the rear legs to house the bench’s plywood back panel. Space the grooves 1/8″ from the back face of each rear leg.

You raise the side panels’ edges on either a shaper or router table, using just about any style of panel-raising cutter/bit you wish. Just make sure to raise the panels in a series of passes: never all at once! During each pass, shape the short grain at the ends of each panel first, then shape its long grain edges. This helps prevent grain tearout and splintering. When you get close to the final pass (which should produce panel edges just a shade thinner than 1/4″), set up your shaper/router table to take a very light cut. This should minimize tearout and burn marks and produce a profile requiring very little sanding.

A few more routing tasks remain: First, rout a groove into the inside face of the lower rear long rail (this will mate with the bench’s bottom). Before routing, glue the two loose tenons into the ends of the rail and let the glue dry. Chuck a 3/8″-dia. straight bit into the router table set for a 3/8″-deep cut and spaced so the groove will be 3/8″ from the rail’s top edge. The groove should stop at the ends of the rail itself.

You can use the same bit to make the back stop strip: rout a 3/8″-wide, 1/4″-deep rabbet into the edge of a piece of 3/4″ stock, then slice off a 7/16″-thick strip.

To make the top buttons (used to fasten the bench’s seat), take a 1-1/4″-wide strip of short-grain stock and rout a 3/8″-deep, 1/2″-wide rabbet on one edge, then slice off eight 1-1/4″-long buttons.

Bottom, Drawer Support and Bulkheads

Once the bench’s bottom, drawer support and bulkheads have been glued up and trimmed to final size, there’s some machining to be done before the bench is ready for assembly.

Start by setting up a router with a piloted rabbet bit and pilot bearing set to take a 3/8″-wide cut. With the bit’s cutting depth set to 3/8″, rout a rabbet into the top back edge of the bench’s bottom. The resulting short lip will fit into the 3/8″ groove in the bench’s rear lower rail, to allow the solid wood bottom to expand and contract.

Loose tenons are used to join the bench’s twin bulkheads to both the drawer support and to the bottom. Chop three mortises (centered thickness-wise and spaced as shown) into the bottom ends of the two bulkheads and both ends of the drawer support; the back edges of these three parts should be flush. Next, chop the shallow mortises into the inside faces of the bulkheads and top surface of the bench bottom; the front edges of the bulks should overhang the front edge of the bottom by 1/2″. If you’re chopping these with a Domino, clamp a straight board to each part to act as a fence, and plunge cut these mortises only 15 mm deep.

Now, using a table saw and a miter gauge fitted with a large fence, cut a pair of notches (sized as shown) into the front and back top edges of both bulkheads. These notches are for the upper long rails. Use a dowel jig and a portable drill to bore a single 3/8″ hole into the center of each notch, for the dowels that join the rails to the bulkheads.

To rout the grooves for the top buttons that secure the bench’s seat to the base (while allowing for wood movement), fit a router with a 1/4″ kerf-cutting bit set with its cutting edge 3/8″ below the router’s sub-base. Rout a pair of 3″-long grooves at the top edges of the two bulkheads as shown. Also rout a pair of grooves at the top edge of the inside-facing faces of the two upper short rails.

Next, drill the holes for the shelf pins that support the bench’s adjustable shelves. Chuck a 1/4″ bit (preferably a brad point or Forstner bit) into the drill press and bore a series of 3/8″-deep holes into the outward-facing faces of the two bulkheads, located as shown in the Drawing. Using the same setup, bore matching holes into the inside-facing edge of each leg.

Drawer Construction

My original plan was to build the drawer of solid wood with dovetail corners, but frankly, I ran out of steam, so instead I used 1/2″ Baltic birch plywood joined with simple rabbet-and-dado joints. After cutting the parts out and sanding them smooth, I cut the 1/4″-deep joints using a 1/2″ dado blade stack in the table saw. I purposely located the back of the drawer box a full 3″ from the back ends of the sides, so that the drawer is supported when pulled out far enough to access the contents. The drawer’s 1/4″ plywood bottom slips into a 1/4″ x 1/4″ groove cut 1/4″ up from the bottom edge of the front and side pieces; it butts up flush to the bottom edge of the back. After gluing the drawer up and checking it for squareness, I reinforced each joint with a small nail, driven by a pneumatic pin gun. The 3/4″-thick oak drawer face is attached later.

Assembly

To make gluing up and clamping the bench’s base more manageable, the assembly is done in several stages. Start by gluing the spacer strips onto the inside-facing face of each lower short rail, with their ends and bottom edges flush. Also glue the front lower long rail to the front edge of the bottom, keeping the ends and top edges flush. I rounded over the top edge of this rail with a 1/4″-radius roundover bit; I used the same bit to round over the top front edges of all the shelves. Next, using a plate biscuit joiner, plunge cut a pair of #20 size slots into both ends of the bottom, and matching slots into the two spacer strips (these help keep the bottom flat, while allowing wood movement).

The ends of the bench are assembled first: Glue both the upper and lower short rails to one of the legs, joining them with 10 mm x 50 mm loose tenons. Take care to keep each part oriented correctly. After slipping the raised panel into its grooves (raised portion facing outwards — and no glue, the panels must float), apply glue and install the other leg. After applying clamps, use a straightedge to make sure that the faces of the legs (with the mortises for the long rails) are flat and parallel to each other.

To assemble the bulkheads and drawer support, glue 10 mm x 40 mm loose tenons (you can cut standard 10 mm x 80 mm Dominos in half), first into the mortises in the bulkheads, then the drawer support. After clamping, the distance between bulkheads measured at the top and bottom should be the same. Glue the bulkhead assembly to the bench bottom next, once again using 10 mm x 40 mm loose tenons and applying clamps at the front and back edges of the bulkheads. After the glue has dried, screw on the two drawer guide strips onto the inside upper faces of the bulkheads. To do that, slide the drawer in place and lay a strip of cardboard on top of it, to act as a spacer. Now set the guide strip on top and screw it in place. The holes at the back of the strip should be slightly slotted, to allow for wood movement.

To assure that final assembly goes well, I do a dry fit with no glue. Before attaching the upper long rails, I press 3/8″ dowel center points into the four holes in the bulkhead notches. Once the rails are in place, I tap them against the points, then use the small indentations to drill 3/8″ holes 1/2″ deep into each rail. After unclamping all the dry-assembled parts, I glue the long rails into the bulkhead notches.

To begin final assembly, slip the lower rear long rail onto the lip of the bench bottom (no glue!), then apply glue to all the mortises in the ends of the long rails and legs. I also press (no glue!) #20 biscuits into the slots in the ends of the bottom. Glue the loose tenons into the long rails first, then press the end assemblies onto the tenons. Use four long bar clamps to apply pressure at each corner of the base, gradually tightening until all joints are fully seated.

While the base assembly dries, work on the bench seat. First, round over the front top edge of the seat using a 3/8″-radius roundover bit. Saw a 1-1/4″ radius curve onto one end of both short backrest parts, then join them to the ends of the long backrest piece with 3/8″ dowels. Once dry, round over the front-facing top edges of the backrest. After sanding these parts to final smoothness, mount the backrest atop the seat, centering it widthwise, and securing it with countersunk #8 x 1-1/2″ screws from below.

Finishing Touches

Once you scrape off any glue residue left after assembly, it’s time to do final sanding and apply finish to the shoe bench’s base, as well as the seat, back, shelves, drawer front and other small parts. I opted for several coats of a tinted Danish oil finish, in order to darken the light oak and give it a richer appearance.

When it dried, I set the seat upside down on my benchtop (covered with a towel to prevent damage), then set the base upside-down on top of it. After positioning the rear upper long rail flush to the back edge of the seat and centering the base side to side, fasten the seat by pressing the eight top buttons into their slots and screwing them down with #8 x 1-1/4″ washer head screws. Now slide the 1/4″ back panel into its groove in the legs, and secure it to the lower rail by nailing on the back stop strip. Nail the top of the back to the upper rail, then screw the center foot to the center on the underside of the bottom.

With the bench right-side-up on a low work table, I pressed the L-shaped metal shelf support pins into the appropriate holes and set the four shelves in place. To keep them from moving during use, I drove a #6 x 1/2″ pan head screw up through the holes in the two front support pins of each shelf. Slide the drawer in place, and mount the drawer face by screwing it on from inside the drawer box, locating the face’s lower edge flush with the bottom of the drawer support. Screw on a small, pendant style drawer pull.

When the job’s done, it’s easy to sit down, take off my work shoes and pull on a pair of comfortable slippers.

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