I’ve equipped the support table fences with Kreg’s aluminum track system and flip stop, for setting up precise cutoff lengths or carrying out repetitive cutting jobs. You’ll also notice that the saw is mounted on a center platform that slides back and forth and locks in place.

It enables you to mount a backup board directly to the saw’s metal fences for tearout-free cutting, then align the saw flush with the project’s fixed fences. When you need to tilt the machine for bevel cuts, just pull the platform forward of the fences and tip the saw as usual. No versatility lost here.

While a miter saw’s bag captures some sawdust, a shop vacuum works much better, so I’ve sized the stand’s enclosed cabinet to fit a vac with up to a 16-gallon capacity. The saw turns it on, thanks to a tool activated switch inside.

And, although you can’t see it in this large opening photo, a trough behind the saw helps collect whatever the shop vac doesn’t. A chamber runs behind the left support table, with openings on both ends, so you can hook up your dust collector and whisk the trough clean.

Six fixed shelves give you plenty of room for cutoff storage; I’ve even added two pull-out bins to mine that store those shorter scraps I can’t bear to throw away. Plus, heavy-duty casters make the cart easy to roll around when necessary.

Ready to build one of these souped-up stations for your shop? Let’s get started!

Assembling the Carcass

Follow the Material List dimensions to make six panels for the sides and dividers (pieces 1). I cut the two outer side panels to final size right away, but notice that the dividers are doubled up to form the walls of the inner cabinet. So, I cut two dividers to dimension, glued them to slightly oversized mates, and then used a flush-trim bit in my handheld router to bring them to a perfect matched fit. Take these four components to your table saw to mill dadoes for the four fixed shelves, plus the center panel that supports the saw platform. Refer to the Drawings to cut two large holes in the left divider and side panel for the dust chamber openings. A 3-1/2″-diameter hole saw in your drill press will do it nicely. Ease the edges of these holes.

Set these panels aside, and cut the long top panels and back panel to shape (pieces 2 and 3). Although my buddy Bruce Kieffer favors thinner edging for his plywood projects, I like the durability and look of thicker edging. So, I wrapped the ends of the top panels, as well as the top and ends of the back panel, with beefier strips (pieces 4). Attach them with glue and #20 biscuits.

While the glue dries, you can proceed to cut the cabinet bottom, fixed shelves, short top panel and dust chamber wall (pieces 5 through 8) to shape. Bore a hole for your shop vac hose in the short top panel near the back right corner. As tempting as it may be to dive into the big assembly, the smarter approach is to sand all the inside surfaces of the cabinet panels now and finish them while the faces are still fully accessible.

The carcass actually goes together quickly; you can form the joints with #8 countersunk wood screws or 2″ brad nails. No glue is really necessary. Here’s the process I followed, building one end of the cabinet, then the other: Screw the side panel to the bottom panel, then fasten the back panel to these two with more screws. (Note: The back panel extends below the bottom panel by 3/4″ to allow room for the bottom cleats, later.) Slip the shelves into their dadoes in the side panel, and set the divider into place. Drive screws through the divider’s top dado to pin it to the top shelf, and lock the shelves to the side panel with more brads. If you’re starting with the left bank of shelves, fit the dust chamber wall into position on the top shelf; attach it to the divider and top shelf with screws and to the side panel with brads. Now, repeat this whole assembly process on the other end of the cabinet for the side, shelves and divider.

When all of these components are fastened, slide the short top panel into place between the dividers. Attach the dividers, short top panel and shelves to the bottom and/or back panels with screws. Finally, seal the joints of the dust chamber with a bead of caulk before capping off the shelf banks with the two top panels. Use countersunk screws driven down into the dividers, sides and dust chamber wall, as well as through the back, to secure these joints. Cover all of the screw holes with wood plugs, and sand them flush when the glue dries. Your project is rolling along nicely now.

Adding the Face Frame & Wheels

The face frame is a straightforward assembly. I built it entirely with pocket screws. But, before you rip and crosscut all of the face frame components (pieces 9 through 13), let me make a suggestion: while the Material List specifies that all of the face frame parts are 1-1/2″ wide — which on a perfect carcass will work just fine — make the short top and long bottom rails about 1/16″ wider and the end stiles about this much wider and 1/8″ longer than listed. That way, you’ll build in some “fudge factor” to adjust the finished frame on the carcass when it’s assembled.

Cabinetmakers do this all the time. Trim and fit your face frame parts right on the carcass, holding them in place with clamps as needed, so you’ll be assured of their exact placement. Once all of the parts are created, label every joint carefully to keep their orientation clear before removing the loose rails and stiles and boring your pocket screw holes. Assemble the face frame with screws on a large worksurface. Then set and clamp it into position on the cabinet, and nail it home. Remove any overhang on the top and sides of the face frame with a trim router, block plane or belt sander.

At this point, you’re nearly ready to tip the project upright — and you can leave it that way for the remainder of the construction process if you install the long and short bottom cleats (pieces 14 and 15) and the six casters (pieces 16) now. I glued and nailed the cleats in place and mounted the casters with 1″ lag screws and washers. Grab a buddy to help you right the stand onto its wheels. Add the side and back skirt boards (pieces 17 and 18) to hide the ends and edges of the bottom panel and cleats; I rounded the ends of the side skirt boards first at my disc sander before gluing and nailing the skirting in place.

Building and Hanging the Doors

After all this big-panel construction, the doors will probably come as a pleasant reprieve. Cut the stiles, rails and door panels (pieces 19 through 21) to size, and head to your table saw to mill the panel grooves and stub tenons that hold the doors together. If your door panel plywood is slightly thinner than 1/4″ — and these days, it usually is — cut the rail and stile grooves to fit the panels snugly. Make the stub tenon thickness on the ends of the rails match the groove width, and mill the tenons 3/8″ long. Sand the door parts thoroughly before gluing and clamping them together. Follow the instructions that come with the 1/2″ overlay Euro hinges (pieces 22) that will mount these doors to the face frame.

You’ll need to bore pairs of 35mm hinge cup holes into the door stiles, attach the hinge hardware and then mount the hinges and doors to the cabinet. It’s easier to do than you might think. Once the doors are in position on the project, adjust the hinges to align the doors with one another. Go ahead and install the door pulls, too (pieces 23).

Making the Saw Platform

It’s time to outfit your saw for its new home, and that means building the moveable platform. Cut the platform base (piece 24) to size, and mill two slots for hanger bolts with a 3/8″-diameter straight or spiral bit in your router table. Now, glue strips of edging (pieces 28) to the base as well as to blanks of plywood for the platform top and sides (pieces 25 and 27). Trim the edging flush. Before you cut the sides and back (piece 26) to final width, verify this measurement considering the exact height of your saw’s base; you want to make sure the saw will meet the support tables flush when mounted on the platform. Sand and finish the platform parts now before screwing or nailing it together.

Drill holes in the platform to suit your saw’s mounting configuration, and bolt the saw to the platform. I used carriage bolts, washers and nylon lock nuts. Now, set the platform into place on the cabinet, and use the slots to reference where to drill pilot holes for the hanger bolts (pieces 30). Locate the bolts 4-1/2″ from the front of the cabinet. Before drilling those holes, fasten a backer board (piece 29) up inside the cabinet to give the hanger bolts a thicker mounting substrate. Install the hanger bolts.

Adding the Fences

The fences consist of three parts: a wooden body (piece 32), a strip of aluminum angle (piece 33) that secures it to the cabinet and, of course, the Kreg aluminum flip-stop track on top (piece 34). Cut and assemble these fence parts with #10-3/4″ panhead sheet metal screws to create two long fence units. When mine were ready, I mounted them 9-1/2″ back from the front edge of the support tables with more panhead screws.

That fence placement enables my 12″-diameter miter saw to crosscut stock to its full capacity. It also allows enough room in the hanger bolt slots to move the platform backward for attaching backup boards to the saw fence or forward for opening the saw’s fences to make bevel cuts. You may need to adjust the location of these two fixed fences to suit your saw’s styling and cutting range.

Wrapping Things Up

Whether you build scrap bins for your project like I did is up to you; you might want to devote the entire shelf space to longer cutoffs. If you do build bins, I sized mine to 15-3/4″ x 18″ and used through dovetails for joinery. There are measured drawings for the bins online.

As far as electricals go, I think Rockler’s i-Socket (piece 35) is a great add-on to this stand, because it activates the vacuum every time you squeeze the saw’s trigger. But, you’ll need to install a receptacle and long cord inside the cabinet to plug in the i-Socket, or use a power strip. I chose the former option and wired my outlet with a length of 12-gauge extension cord and male plug. It can handle the start-up amperage of both tools.

With all of the inside details now completed, give the outside of your project a thorough sanding, and apply finish to whatever surfaces are still bare. Install the dust port (piece 36) over the dust chamber hole on the left side of the cabinet with a bead of caulk to create an air seal, and attach it with four screws.

Whew, this was a big project, but one you won’t regret building. Now you’ve got a full-duty miter saw station and a handsome shop addition to boot. I hope you enjoy using it!

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

Hard-to-Find Hardware:

4″ Caster (Locking) #23030
4″ Caster (swivel) #22410
1/2″ Overlay Face Frame Hinges #55910
Hanger Bolts (8 pack) #24430
i-Socket Switch #20890
Kreg Top Trak (2 required) #26358
Kreg Flip Stop #21938
Self-Stick Rule (L to R) #69116
Self-Stick Rule (R to L) #69124
Dust Right Combo Port #28666

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A Builder’s Challenge

Not long ago, publisher Larry Stoiaken challenged me to come up with a kitchen island design that was practical and very stylish but one that even a novice woodworker could build. At first I thought it was one of those pie-in-the-sky ideas a publisher will float out there from time to time, with little to come of it later. (In my experience, our publisher has a tendency to imagine projects in his mind’s-eye that woodworkers find just about impossible to pull off in an actual shop.) But then I had a talk with editor-in-chief Rob Johnstone and we started to see some real possibilities. After his experience last issue completing a cabinet “makeover,” Rob realized how many ways there are for woodworkers to go when it comes to completing a home project. These days you can buy a lot of items “custom-made to order” — like decorative legs, drawer faces and that sort of thing, and this approach to woodworking really got us thinking. If a person has the skill to build a simple melamine box, perhaps we could dress up the outside of it with pre-made components and come up with a fancy island that almost anyone could put together. I was almost embarrassed at how easily the project design came together … but I let Larry sweat for a few days before I gave him the sketch and the ideas. (Just like Scotty on Star Trek, let everyone think you can work wonders by making a task seem much harder than it actually is … )

Now I am not going to try to fool you: this is a much more expensive way to build a cabinet than starting from raw wood and building every component yourself, but the advantages to this method are obvious. And, it is also a lot less expensive way to acquire a cabinet than hiring your local cabinetmaker. After much discussion, the approach we settled on was to purchase as many items as possible — if you have the skills, you can substitute labor for any one of those items, be it the butcher block top, the panels, the drawer fronts or even the turned legs. What I’ll describe is an approach that even a raw novice can undertake. Where you go with the project is completely up to you!

Starting Right at the Top

I purchased two butcher block tops to make the top and counter (pieces 1 and 2) and used all of the material up. One piece was ripped to form the counter and its leftover was glued to the other piece to form the top. Since this material comes with a slight roundover on its edges, you’ll need to trim the full piece a bit before gluing it to the cutoff. That way the roundover won’t show up in the middle of your glue-up. To avoid extra sanding, be very accurate as you align the pieces when you clamp them together.

Once you remove the top from the clamps, chuck a 1/4″ roundover bit in your router to go around the entire top and counter (both the tops and bottoms) to ensure that this detail is consistent on both pieces. Now sand the top and counter through the grits and set them aside so you can turn your attention to the pieces that will complete the top subassembly.

The Top Subassembly

The counter supports and apron (pieces 3, 4 and 5) will serve to elevate the counter and bring the top pieces together as one subassembly. The shaping details for the outer supports are in the Drawings at right. Now is the time to machine them, along with the inner support and the apron. The apron fits into dadoes in the outer supports, and the inner support fits into its own dado in the middle of the apron, as shown in the Drawings. After test fitting the parts, glue the pieces together.

Now you’ve arrived at one of the trickier aspects of this project. The counter will bear a lot of weight during its lifetime, so I thought it best to bolt it right to the top. But it’s about 7″ from the top of the counter to the bottom of the top, which means drilling in series. Here’s how I did that: First, use the Drawings to lay out the six 35mm holes on the counter’s top for the large tapered plugs (pieces 6). Using a 35mm cup hinge bit, drill all six holes to a depth of 3/4″ and then line up the counter, the support subassembly and the top (see Drawings).

A couple of wooden handscrew clamps came in really handy here. Firmly attach one wooden handscrew clamp to each outer counter support and then use smaller bar clamps to hold them in position on the top. Carefully line up the counter on top of the supports, clamp them in position and, using a 1/2″ brad point bit, drill through the center of the inner three holes until you’re slightly into the support pieces. Switch to a countersink bit for a moment and drill through the outer two holes (the outer center hole is just for looks) until you’re into the supports. Then remove the counter and switch back to the 1/2″ brad point bit to extend the three inner holes, this time through the supports, just into the top.

Finally, loosen up the wooden handscrews, remove the support subassembly, and use your brad point bit one last time to complete the 1/2″ hole right through the top. Once you’ve done that, you’ll have to flip the top over and use your 35mm bit to countersink the three bolt holes from the other side to keep the nuts and washers at the end of the bolts contained. Blow away the chips and bring the counter, the support subassembly and the top together as its own subassembly, using the three bolts (pieces 7) and the two long wood screws (pieces 8). Glue 35mm plugs (pieces 6) into all six top holes (leaving them just a bit proud) and, once the glue dries, sand them flush to the counter.

Moving on to the Casework

The next step is to make the casework and add the face frame to it. The casework itself couldn’t be easier. Two sides, a top, bottom and middle divider, a small drawer divider and the back (pieces 9 through 12) come together with a series of dadoes and rabbets; follow the details in the Drawing at right. Using your nail gun (or you can screw it together if you don’t own a nail gun) and glue, assemble the carcass and then attach the back, which conveniently helps to square everything up.

A Simple Face Frame

The face frame was built “in place,” which really simplified matters. Cut the stiles, rails and middle stile to width (pieces 13, 14 and 15) and then glue and nail the left side in place, followed by the top, the middle stile, the middle rail, the bottom rail and, finally, the right stile. Each piece can be positioned in place and marked as you go … the good news is that the joinery is covered by the legs and drawers!

The Purchased Parts

Up to this point, the only real “purchased” items have been the butcher block top and counter and the large plugs. If the thought of taking on all the upcoming leg work and frame and panel work gives you pause, relax (if you can do that while simultaneously pulling out your wallet).

The legs (pieces 16 and 17) and the panels, which are just raised panel doors mounted to the carcass (pieces 18 and 19), are “store-bought.” The panels arrived fully assembled, ready for finishing. The legs did require a little work, as shown in the series of photos. You can’t tell from those photos, but that’s an extra long fence on the table saw, which helps to keep the legs square during these cuts. Without it, the legs would want to work their way away from the fence (as the square portion at each end is disengaged or encounters the fence). With the longer auxiliary fence, that’s not a problem.

Notice in the Drawings that the rip cuts in the back legs and front legs, while the same on one plane, are different on the other. This accommodates the width of the doors, which have yet to be added to the mix. It will also affect the dimension of the leg fillers (pieces 17), which end up supporting the entire weight of the piece.

Since there are two kerfs involved in creating these long rabbets, it was impossible to simply use the cutoff. Make sure your filler piece is correctly oriented for grain match and get as close as possible with your color. Clamp and glue these pieces to the legs and sand them smooth.

With the legs ready for assembly, turn your attention to the panels. I suggest starting on one side, toward the front, and attaching the side panels (pieces 19) from the inside, with screws. Use a couple of washers to keep the panels about 1/8″ apart (creating a reveal) and don’t worry if they’re short on the backside — the legs will cover that. On the back, I placed the middle panel first and then the two outer panels (pieces 18), not worrying about a larger gap at the ends because, again, the legs will cover it.

Now you’re ready to install the legs. As mentioned earlier, the two back legs have different dimension rabbets than the two front legs (see Drawings), so make sure you have everything well marked.

Doors, Drawers and Pullout Shelves

As was the case with the legs and panels, the doors and drawer faces (pieces 20 and 21) for this project are “storebought.” I did end up making the drawers and the pullout shelves myself, because they were really easy and, aside from the grooves for the bottoms, involved very little machining. Follow the Material List and cut all the parts to size for these subassemblies.

Start with the drawers (pieces 22, 23 and 24), first cutting the pieces to size and then forming the 1/4″ groove for the bottom, as shown in the drawings. The dimensions are such that you simply capture the bottom as you glue up the surrounding pieces. The pullout shelves are much the same story, just larger. Again, cut the front and back, sides and bottoms (pieces 25, 26 and 27) to size, mill the grooves for the bottom and glue the pieces together.

You’re going to need slide supports (pieces 28) on each side, so the shelves can clear the doors and the drawer faces can extend to the full width of the doors. I installed three on each side, as shown in the Drawings. With the supports installed, you’re ready to attach the full-extension slides to the supports, the drawer divider and the pullout shelves and drawers.

Follow the directions on the package and, when everything is moving well, attach the drawer fronts and doors. The hinges for the doors (pieces 30) were positioned strategically to miss the pullout shelves, as shown in the Drawings, and the drawer fronts are screwed in position from the inside of the drawer in slightly oversized holes, which allows for adjustment.

Finishing Up

Install your pulls and knobs (pieces 31 and 32), and you are ready to move on to the finish. I used Butcher Block oil for the top and counter because it’s food safe and then I turned to Nordic Oil for the base pieces. Cherry really looks great with an oil finish, and the patina will get richer as the years march by.

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

The post PROJECT: Build a Kitchen Island appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

My design eliminates the fancy joinery that’s usually associated with an octagonal roof and walls. Instead, I used hinges to join the walls and a patio umbrella for the roof.

As a result, my gazebo is quite easy to build for around $200 (perhaps a little less), plus the cost of the umbrella. An added bonus: it’s relatively lightweight and portable. If you want to move this gazebo to a new location or take it down for the winter, it is not difficult to do.

The finished project breaks down to four hinged pairs of wall panels and eight trim boards. The wall sections join together with 12 wingnuts, and it takes less than 30 minutes to raise or take down the gazebo.

Nevertheless, the structure is very stable, even under windy conditions. To be on the safe side, I used a heavy concrete umbrella base of about 90 pounds, and I fastened the umbrella’s ribs to the hooks on the sides with elastic line as shown in the plans and photos.

Framing the Walls

Building the walls is made easier because all eight sides have the same overall dimensions, and seven of them are identical. This means that for every part, you only need to measure once — and then transfer the marks to the other workpieces.

I used 5/4 stock for the posts (pieces 5) and the cross members (pieces 6). The arch panels (pieces 1) are cut from 3/4″ exteriorgrade plywood. The remaining framing is from 2 x 2 lumber, which you can rip from 2 x 4s if you so choose.

Once you’re done with measuring and marking, cut all the parts to size. This saves time and makes creating uniform pieces a bit easier. I marked the 27-1/2″ radius on the arched panels using the simple homemade compass.

I then made the curved cuts with a jigsaw, but a band saw would work as well. All the other cuts can be made with a handsaw and miterbox, a portable circular saw, or, for best results, a table saw. Whichever you choose, you will save yourself a lot of trouble if you make certain that they are all perfectly square cuts.

Assembly of the walls works best on a large worktable. Sawhorses, topped with a sheetstock panel such as plywood, work great. Just be sure to use a sheet that you have checked to make sure the factory-made corners are indeed square. Begin by screwing the blocks (pieces 4) to the rails (pieces 2) as shown in the Drawings.

Align one post with the edge of the work table, and then clamp the rails with the block assemblies (see the Drawings for details) in position relative to the posts and balusters (pieces 3). Screw the rails to the posts and then to the balusters. Then screw the outboard rails to the blocks and to the posts.

For measuring the cross members (pieces 6), it’s easiest to first draw centerlines. Then lay them under the assembled wall and mark the angles. They should, of course, be close to 45 degrees. Make the cuts and position them, one over the other, inside the square opening. Mark the area where they overlap. Here, you’ll have to make notches in order to fashion the half-lap joints.

It’s easy to do this. Simply make a series of cuts halfway through each cross member. Switch to a sharp wood chisel to carefully clear out the waste. I found that I could clean these joints out by hand (no tapping with a hammer). Please take care never to have the chisel pointed toward your hand or body.

It can easily slip and cause a nasty gouge if you are not careful. Install the rails (pieces 2) at the top of the subassemblies next. Then install the arch panels (pieces 1). Use a few 3/8″- thick strips of scrap wood to support the panels in a centered position during assembly.

The entrance wall is identical in size to the others, except there is no balustrade assembly.

Install the Hinges

Before you install the hardware, take time to paint the parts. I chose to prime the wood with a good quality white primer and then filled holes and seams with latex spackle and caulk. I followed with two coats of white exterior enamel. You can choose any color that you wish — but that pure white enamel offered what I thought of as a classic look.

With the painting done, you can move on to installing the hinges. Divide the wall panels into pairs and use 8″ strap hinges (pieces 8) to join each pair of panels together. The only exception to this is for the pairing of the entrance panel and its adjacent wall panel. Here, use T-hinges (pieces 10) instead of strap hinges as shown in the Drawings. You will need to bore one hole in each of the 6″ strap hinges (pieces 9). Install three of these hinges on the inside of one post for each pair of panels. You’ll use these extra holes you’ve just drilled in the hinges to join each pair of wall panels to one another with bolts and wingnuts. (You’ll also need to bore a hole in two of the T-hinges in the same manner as you just did for the 6″ strap hinges, for the same reason — joining the entrance panel to a paired panel set.) Now drill a pilot hole into the edge of the same rails you attached the hinges to, to install a screw hook (pieces 11) for securing the elastic cords later. Position these screw hooks 10″ down from the top end of the rails. Twist the hooks into place.

Erect the Gazebo Walls

Stand the wall panels on the gazebo site of your choice. Arrange them so the entrance wall faces in the direction you prefer and so you have a perfect octagon. A simple trick to ensure “octagon-ness” is to make sure the distance between opposite corners around the octagon’s perimeter is equal. Once you have it right, clamp the still-loose hinge leaves to their mating posts. Bore holes through the posts at the holes you previously drilled in the hinges. Tap carriage bolts through each pair of hinges and post holes (from the outside face in), and secure the connection with washers and wingnuts.

Raise the Roof

Installing the umbrella (piece 13) is simple. Place the umbrella base (piece 14), as well as the table you want to use, at the center of the gazebo. Lift the top half of the umbrella clear of the walls, open it, and secure it to the lower umbrella post. Tie off eight loops of elastic cord (pieces 12), one per umbrella rib, and hook them onto the previously installed screw hooks. Now you can proceed with installing the eight vertical trim boards (pieces 7), once again using carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts.

By the way, it pays to buy a patio umbrella of good quality. The gazebo will last many years, and you’ll want an umbrella that will, too. I chose a 10-foot diameter, wood model with eight sides, making the gazebo big enough for four to six chairs and a small table. (The distance from inside wall to inside wall is about 9-1/2 feet. You can opt for an 11-foot umbrella—and a bigger gazebo—but you will have to increase the width of the wall panels accordingly.)

Here’s a note of caution: just because an umbrella has a listed diameter of 10 feet does not mean it will actually be that size. Sometimes the manufacturer uses round numbers, or measures over the peak of the umbrella. If you buy your umbrella first, you can always adjust your panels to suit.

This project is a nice summer effort that doesn’t take weeks to complete. It can help you enjoy your backyard and your woodworking hobby too.

Download the Drawings and Materials List.

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