This coffee table conveniently rolls about on casters to wherever you need it. Then, it flips open into a bed that accommodates an average size adult. (If you are over 6′ tall, this bed is not for you … but for the rest of us, it is actually quite cozy.)

Conversion is easy. Just hold the handle, swing the top open 180°, and insert the headboard. The folded-up coffee table “box” contains it all — mattress, sheets, comforter and pillow. You make the mattress from high-density foam rubber, which is readily available from most upholstery shops or can be easily purchased online.

Making the Table/Bed

Begin work on this project by cutting all the parts to size. Although a fully outfitted workshop will no doubt make the job easier, this entire space saving project can be made with a couple of handheld power tools and a hammer. I decided on simple lumberyard 2 x 6s for the rails (pieces 1), although standard 5/4 stock would work just as well.

The height of the rails is calculated so there is about an 11″-deep storage area for mattress and bedding when the unit is being used as a coffee table. For the bottom and top (piece 2), footboard end (piece 3), headboard end (piece 4) and headboard panel (piece 5), I chose 5/8″-thick veneer-core plywood. A lower quality plywood can also be used, but be sure to fill any edge voids before finishing.

Before you cut the footboard end to size, buy the casters. You’ll need to know the exact height of your casters before cutting the footboard to final width. The footboard width equals the caster height plus another 6-1/8″.

Machining the other details on this table/bed is pretty straightforward. I drilled two holes with a spade bit, then used a jigsaw to “connect the dots,” thus creating the handle openings. Put together the main subassembly with glue, finishing nails and clamps. While the glue cures, mark a centerline on the assembly in order to cut it in half, later.

Next, install the casters. Use 2″ #8 flathead wood screws to secure the outboard sides of the casters to the bottom and top (piece 2) and rails (pieces 1). You’ll have to use 1/2″ #8 flathead wood screws to secure the inboard sides of the casters to the plywood, or else these screws would protrude into the bedding area.

At this point, the “bed box” is still one piece. The next step is to cut the box in half. I decided to make use of my (just) sharpened handsaw to make this cut, because it’s a lot safer than using a circular saw or table saw for a large scale operation like this. The added control also makes splintering and mistakes less likely. Stand the unit on one rail and begin the cut. Then you can lay the box on 2 x 4 scraps, open side down, and cut across the plywood base. Finally, stand the unit on the already cut rail and make your final cut through the uncut rail.

Rejoin the two box halves with two strap hinges (pieces 7). It is important that there is something solid to screw the hinges into, which is the main reason the rails are made of thicker stock.

Installing All-important Alignment Pins

Two small but very important parts are the alignment pins (pieces 6). Made from 3/8″- diameter by 1-3/4″ dowels, they serve to keep the rails aligned and parallel when in coffee table mode. They also create a small gap between the rails to prevent the table halves from pinching your fingers when closing up the bed.

To install the pins, bore the holes to a depth of 7/8″. Then add a drop or two of glue to the holes and tap in the pins until they are fully seated. Mark for the opposing holes and bore them to a depth of 7/8″ minus the depth of the hinge knuckles.

The removable headboard panel (piece 5) mounts to the folded-up coffee table configuration with magnetic catches (pieces 8). The steel plates are attached to the headboard panel, while the magnetic catches are screwed to the inside faces of the rails.

It is a clever way to hold the captured panel securely. You’ll also need to drill a 3/4″ or 1″-diameter finger hole through the headboard panel. That way, you can grab the piece more easily and pull it free of the table before you open it up into a bed.

To finish the project, sand the assembly until smooth. I started at 80-grit paper and worked my way through the grits until I got to 180-grit. Ease all the sharp edges and corners, too.

Cover any knots with a sealer such as shellac to keep them from bleeding through the paint, and then apply a coat of good quality primer. Allow the primer to dry and, if needed, apply a second coat. Lightly sand again with a fine grit before applying two coats of interior enamel.

You can choose whatever method you prefer to apply the paint, but I used a good quality bristle brush. Take your time and be systematic in your approach, and you’ll get great results.

Buying the Mattress

While you can use a ready-made camping or cot mattress or a yoga mat for this bed, it will be far more comfortable if you call a local upholstery company and have it cut from latex or polyurethane foam to the required size. Be sure to ask about density and compression when shopping.

The higher the density (best is 1.8 rating or above), the more comfortable. Compression ratings determine the degree of softness. You can also order a foam rubber mattress online at www.efoamstore.com. For a “greener” option, use a cotton or wool-filled mattress.

Simple but Useful

Whether you use this piece in your home or cabin, or even send it off to college with your children, its simple yet practical design will be useful for years to come.

Click Here to Download the Drawing and Materials List.

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My design eliminates the fancy joinery that’s usually associated with an octagonal roof and walls. Instead, I used hinges to join the walls and a patio umbrella for the roof.

As a result, my gazebo is quite easy to build for around $200 (perhaps a little less), plus the cost of the umbrella. An added bonus: it’s relatively lightweight and portable. If you want to move this gazebo to a new location or take it down for the winter, it is not difficult to do.

The finished project breaks down to four hinged pairs of wall panels and eight trim boards. The wall sections join together with 12 wingnuts, and it takes less than 30 minutes to raise or take down the gazebo.

Nevertheless, the structure is very stable, even under windy conditions. To be on the safe side, I used a heavy concrete umbrella base of about 90 pounds, and I fastened the umbrella’s ribs to the hooks on the sides with elastic line as shown in the plans and photos.

Framing the Walls

Building the walls is made easier because all eight sides have the same overall dimensions, and seven of them are identical. This means that for every part, you only need to measure once — and then transfer the marks to the other workpieces.

I used 5/4 stock for the posts (pieces 5) and the cross members (pieces 6). The arch panels (pieces 1) are cut from 3/4″ exteriorgrade plywood. The remaining framing is from 2 x 2 lumber, which you can rip from 2 x 4s if you so choose.

Once you’re done with measuring and marking, cut all the parts to size. This saves time and makes creating uniform pieces a bit easier. I marked the 27-1/2″ radius on the arched panels using the simple homemade compass.

I then made the curved cuts with a jigsaw, but a band saw would work as well. All the other cuts can be made with a handsaw and miterbox, a portable circular saw, or, for best results, a table saw. Whichever you choose, you will save yourself a lot of trouble if you make certain that they are all perfectly square cuts.

Assembly of the walls works best on a large worktable. Sawhorses, topped with a sheetstock panel such as plywood, work great. Just be sure to use a sheet that you have checked to make sure the factory-made corners are indeed square. Begin by screwing the blocks (pieces 4) to the rails (pieces 2) as shown in the Drawings.

Align one post with the edge of the work table, and then clamp the rails with the block assemblies (see the Drawings for details) in position relative to the posts and balusters (pieces 3). Screw the rails to the posts and then to the balusters. Then screw the outboard rails to the blocks and to the posts.

For measuring the cross members (pieces 6), it’s easiest to first draw centerlines. Then lay them under the assembled wall and mark the angles. They should, of course, be close to 45 degrees. Make the cuts and position them, one over the other, inside the square opening. Mark the area where they overlap. Here, you’ll have to make notches in order to fashion the half-lap joints.

It’s easy to do this. Simply make a series of cuts halfway through each cross member. Switch to a sharp wood chisel to carefully clear out the waste. I found that I could clean these joints out by hand (no tapping with a hammer). Please take care never to have the chisel pointed toward your hand or body.

It can easily slip and cause a nasty gouge if you are not careful. Install the rails (pieces 2) at the top of the subassemblies next. Then install the arch panels (pieces 1). Use a few 3/8″- thick strips of scrap wood to support the panels in a centered position during assembly.

The entrance wall is identical in size to the others, except there is no balustrade assembly.

Install the Hinges

Before you install the hardware, take time to paint the parts. I chose to prime the wood with a good quality white primer and then filled holes and seams with latex spackle and caulk. I followed with two coats of white exterior enamel. You can choose any color that you wish — but that pure white enamel offered what I thought of as a classic look.

With the painting done, you can move on to installing the hinges. Divide the wall panels into pairs and use 8″ strap hinges (pieces 8) to join each pair of panels together. The only exception to this is for the pairing of the entrance panel and its adjacent wall panel. Here, use T-hinges (pieces 10) instead of strap hinges as shown in the Drawings. You will need to bore one hole in each of the 6″ strap hinges (pieces 9). Install three of these hinges on the inside of one post for each pair of panels. You’ll use these extra holes you’ve just drilled in the hinges to join each pair of wall panels to one another with bolts and wingnuts. (You’ll also need to bore a hole in two of the T-hinges in the same manner as you just did for the 6″ strap hinges, for the same reason — joining the entrance panel to a paired panel set.) Now drill a pilot hole into the edge of the same rails you attached the hinges to, to install a screw hook (pieces 11) for securing the elastic cords later. Position these screw hooks 10″ down from the top end of the rails. Twist the hooks into place.

Erect the Gazebo Walls

Stand the wall panels on the gazebo site of your choice. Arrange them so the entrance wall faces in the direction you prefer and so you have a perfect octagon. A simple trick to ensure “octagon-ness” is to make sure the distance between opposite corners around the octagon’s perimeter is equal. Once you have it right, clamp the still-loose hinge leaves to their mating posts. Bore holes through the posts at the holes you previously drilled in the hinges. Tap carriage bolts through each pair of hinges and post holes (from the outside face in), and secure the connection with washers and wingnuts.

Raise the Roof

Installing the umbrella (piece 13) is simple. Place the umbrella base (piece 14), as well as the table you want to use, at the center of the gazebo. Lift the top half of the umbrella clear of the walls, open it, and secure it to the lower umbrella post. Tie off eight loops of elastic cord (pieces 12), one per umbrella rib, and hook them onto the previously installed screw hooks. Now you can proceed with installing the eight vertical trim boards (pieces 7), once again using carriage bolts, washers and wingnuts.

By the way, it pays to buy a patio umbrella of good quality. The gazebo will last many years, and you’ll want an umbrella that will, too. I chose a 10-foot diameter, wood model with eight sides, making the gazebo big enough for four to six chairs and a small table. (The distance from inside wall to inside wall is about 9-1/2 feet. You can opt for an 11-foot umbrella—and a bigger gazebo—but you will have to increase the width of the wall panels accordingly.)

Here’s a note of caution: just because an umbrella has a listed diameter of 10 feet does not mean it will actually be that size. Sometimes the manufacturer uses round numbers, or measures over the peak of the umbrella. If you buy your umbrella first, you can always adjust your panels to suit.

This project is a nice summer effort that doesn’t take weeks to complete. It can help you enjoy your backyard and your woodworking hobby too.

Download the Drawings and Materials List.

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Not so with this design. It measures only 4 x 4 feet, disassembles in minutes with wingnuts and can be built in a weekend for less than $300.

Although this greenhouse is small, it can be used to start an entire garden’s worth of seedlings or grow a year’s supply of herbs. I use mine for tomatoes and cucumbers — plants that are tough to grow outside in our short, cool Denmark summers.

Stick-build the Gables Using a Template

– Place the back wall adjacent to a piece of plywood and draw the gable shape. Mark the angles (approximately 60°) on the rafters (pieces 12) and make your cuts.

– Join the rafters at the peak and to the top plate. Use exterior glue and galvanized screws. Make the job easier by pre-boring all screw holes and by clamping the workpieces together prior to driving the screws.

– Mark for the two angled cuts on the door header and make the cuts. Then glue and screw the header to the rafters.

Building the Roof and Wall Panels

I used 1″ x 4″ pine for building the wall panels. Rip 6-ft. lengths to obtain all the long verticals (pieces 5 and 6), cross braces (pieces 7), door and door frame (pieces 8 and 9) and roof framing (pieces 14 and 15).

Break all sharp edges with 120-grit sandpaper, removing any splinters. Then cut to the lengths specified in the Material List. Next, cut all the horizontal framing members, including pieces 1 and 2.

Rough-cut pieces 3, 4, 10, 11, 12 and 13, making them all an inch or two long. It’s easiest to take exact measurements for these parts, and make final cuts, during assembly.

Assemble the two sidewalls and back wall (all three are identical) using galvanized screws and mending plates. For the front wall, lay out pieces 1 and 5 in position on a flat surface. Lay a piece of plywood adjacent to the wall top.

Mark a centerline on the plywood. Then lay the boards for the rafters (pieces 12) in position and carefully mark them for the angled cuts. You’ll know the parts are placed correctly when the rafter boards and centerline intersect.

The angle at the top plate should be approximately 30° and the angle at the peak should be approximately 60°. Make your rafter cuts and position them on the plywood once again. Now lay the door header (piece 13) in position and mark for the angled cuts.

Follow by measuring for pieces 8 and 4, making final cuts only when you’re sure they’ll fit snugly. You can then assemble the front wall using screws and mending plates.

Take exact measurements for the door only after you have assembled the front wall. Cut door pieces 3, 9 and 10 to length, allowing for a 3/16″ gap around the door perimeter. Assemble the door using screws, and attach the door hinges. Cut duplicate rafters (pieces 12) for the back wall and assemble it in the same way you did for the front wall.

Now assemble the roof panels using galvanized mending plates and screws. Bevel the top edges of the roof panels so they meet smoothly at the ridge. Make test cuts in scrap wood to find the proper angle.

Finish the door, wall and roof panels with a good primer and two coats of exterior enamel. When it’s dry, install the door stop (piece 17) and a latch in the front wall.

Adding the Glazing

The panes for the greenhouse are not made of glass — it would be too heavy and dangerous to move around. Instead, the frames are covered with plastic film, which is a less expensive but very efficient solution. The least expensive solution is to use the heaviest mil polyethylene you can find. Although it will eventually become brittle and cloudy due to the sun’s UV rays, it should get you through two or three seasons.

If you want something longer lasting, use greenhouse film. It is clear, strong and guaranteed to withstand the sun’s rays for up to four years. Greenhouse film is more expensive than the polyethylene you can buy at a home center, but it’s still less expensive than glass or acrylic. The cost of glazing for my greenhouse was approximately $100. Attach the film with staples, and then cover the staples and edges with trim.

Making the Platform

Cut decking boards and sleepers (pieces 18 and 19) to 55″ lengths and assemble them using galvanized screws. Evenly space the boards, allowing gaps for water to drain through to the ground.

Use pressure-treated wood for all decking boards as they will be subject to moist conditions and would otherwise rot.

Erecting the Greenhouse

You are now ready to erect the greenhouse. With the assistance of a helper or the use of clamps, join the front wall to a sidewall with three hinges and secure it to the platform with a fourth hinge. Use bolts and wingnuts with all platform connections to make disassembly quick and easy.

Assemble the back wall and the remaining sidewall in the same manner and attach it to the platform. Then bore holes for joining the walls at the non-hinged corners and fasten these with bolts and wing nuts. Carefully attach the roof panels with bolts and wing nuts as well. Although the structure is quite stable at this point, I recommend the added precaution of staking the platform to the ground. Simply bore holes in the platform corners and drive landscape spikes through them.

Add the plant containers next. Square plant containers will make the best use of the space and can be built from leftover scrap wood. Make them as large as possible so the soil does not dry out too quickly and so plant roots have plenty of growing room. Don’t forget to bore holes in the container bottoms to promote adequate soil drainage.

Where to Place Your Greenhouse

Locate your greenhouse in a sunny spot where you don’t mind losing a small patch of lawn. You can place it near a fence or building as long as the exposure is southern. A sheltered location will protect your greenhouse from winds and help it maintain warmer temperatures.

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

Lars Dalsgaard is a woodworker from Denmark.

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