SawStop is asking the International Trade Commission (ITC) to order U.S. Customs to exclude Bosch’s REAXX saws from entering the United States, and to order Bosch to stop advertising and selling the saws and associated parts, which might include replacement cartridges essential to the saw’s operation.

On Sept. 9, an administrative law judge made an initial determination in favor of SawStop. The following Tuesday, SawStop issued this media release:

“Last Friday, Administrative Law Judge Thomas B. Pender confirmed that the Bosch Reaxx saw infringes patents related to SawStop’s implementation of active injury mitigation technology and components thereof.

Here is an excerpt: ‘Based on the foregoing, it is my Initial Determination that there is a violation of Section 337 of the Tariff Act of 1930, as amended, 19 U.S.C. § 1337, in the importation into the United States, the sale for importation, or the sale within the United States after importation of certain table saws incorporating active injury mitigation technology and components thereof, in connection with the asserted claims of U.S. Patent Nos. 7,895,927 and 8,011,279.” –U.S. I.T.C., Inv. No. 337-TA-965
.’

Dr. Stephen Gass, SawStop’s president, notes that ‘the technology in SawStop saws wouldn’t have made it to market except for the protection offered by the United States patent system. We have invested millions of dollars in research and development to protect woodworkers from serious injury, and our inventions have been awarded numerous patents. Bosch chose to introduce the Reaxx saw in disregard of our patents, and we were left with no alternative but to defend our patent rights in court. We are very pleased Judge Pender confirmed that Bosch infringes our patents.’
”

The day after SawStop’s media release was made public, Bosch responded with their own statement in an effort to clarify any “misleading impressions” about the case developments of late. Bosch reinforced that litigation is ongoing and that REAXX table saws, cartridges and accessories are still for sale.

In the news release, Bosch comments:

“At this time legal proceedings are still under way. The ITC will review the initial determination provided by the Administrative Law Judge on Sept. 9, 2016, as well as additional arguments from the parties, before it makes any decision in the matter. The commission’s decision is not expected until early January 2017. Contrary to any other implication, the patent legal proceedings are ongoing and not final.

The Bosch REAXX Jobsite Table Saw is based on patented technology developed by the Power Tool Institute and the engineering team at Robert Bosch Tool Corp. in Mount Prospect, Illinois. We believe that advanced REAXX safety technology does not violate any competitor’s intellectual property rights.”

Bosch’s news release continues:

“It is disappointing that a competitor is continuing its campaign to stop the sale of patented REAXX technology to consumers. The patents asserted against REAXX are based on applications filed more than 15 years ago; Bosch does not believe they apply to REAXX technology. In addition, Bosch believes that if the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office had complete information it would not have issued certain patents in the first place.

Bosch has vigorously defended, and will continue to defend, its ability to make REAXX table saws available in the United States. In addition, Bosch will continue to pursue its own claim of patent infringement against the competitor filed in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of Illinois.

The ongoing litigation has no effect on distributors’ ability to buy or sell Bosch REAXX table saws. REAXX cartridges, accessories and service parts are available. The Bosch commitment to provide safe products to users is critical today and in the future.”

Woodworker’s Journal will continue to follow the proceedings of this lawsuit and share developments with our eZine audience.

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The new 4V MAX* Lithium Ion ROTO-BIT storage screwdriver comes with eight standard hex bits in flat-blade, Philips, square-drive and Torx styles. They’re housed on a cartridge on top of the driver for easy access. The bit cartridge rotates to help you select the bit you need, and a clear sliding cover keeps them all visible but contained. When you find the right bit, a magnetic chuck holds it securely for use.

A 4-volt lithium-ion battery, built into the screwdriver, enables the tool’s variable-speed motor to spin at 180 RPM and develop up to 35 in.-lbs. of torque. The battery will hold a charge for up to 18 months, so the tool is always ready for use. A corded charger replenishes it when needed.

Other features include an LED worklight near the chuck to help illuminate dark work areas and a magnetic screw holder on top. The screwdriver has a soft overmolded handle, oversized trigger and forward/reverse modes. It’s also compatible with BLACK+DECKER 4V MAX* right angle, offset and multi-cutter screwdriver attachments, sold separately.

The new 4V MAX* Lithium Ion ROTO-BIT storage screwdriver will be available this month at BLACK + DECKER retailers and sells for $29.99.

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The sander is powered by a 1/2hp motor that spins at 1,700 RPM. It drives the machine’s 4-1/2-in.-long spindle through 29 oscillations per minute at 15/16-in. of travel. Five interchangeable spindle diameters, with sanding drums, are included in 1/2-, 3/4-, 1-, 1-1/2- and 2-in. sizes. A 3-in. spindle, sold separately, will also fit the machine. Six table inserts accommodate the various spindle sizes and stow in tool holders on the sander.

A 14-3/4-in.-square cast-iron table supports workpieces during sanding, and it tilts up to 45 degrees for refining angled surfaces. The sander stands 23-1/2-in. tall overall and weighs 76 lbs.

To help keep the air cleaner during sanding, a 2-in.-dia. O.D. dust port under the table can be connected to a shop vacuum or dust collection system.

RIKON’s new 50-300 Oscillating Spindle Sander is available now through dealers and sells for $399.99.

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Chris Marshall: Here’s why I did a drop cut in this instance. If I had started both of those stopped cuts from the back “open” end of the drawer shown in the video, I’d have to flip the drawer around for making the second cut on the other side of the drawer. In doing so, I’d be presenting the top edge of the drawer to the router fence for one cut, then the bottom edge of the drawer to the fence for the other cut.

That would be fine, provided the router fence is EXACTLY centered on the bit, because flipping and routing would yield centered slots. But, Murphy’s Law often punishes us otherwise. If the fence weren’t perfectly centered (which, more often than not, it isn’t — it’s always a tiny bit off-center), starting from the open end would create two slots that won’t line up perfectly with one another across the drawer. They’ll be offset from one another the distance that the fence isn’t centered on the bit. And offset slots will make installing the slides more complicated or result in a drawer that won’t hang straight in its opening.

Here’s another example where drop cuts are good to know how to do: sometimes, you have to both start and stop a cut “blind” instead of being able to start in from the open end: think of a typical mortise or drawer bottom groove, where cutting the groove all the way across the workpiece will cause it to show at the corners when you put the drawer together.

If you mark the edges of the bit accurately on either your router fence or right on the router table, it’s not hard to start or stop a cut precisely on the mark. I’ll often “sneak” up on it by setting the workpiece down on the bit just a tad shy of my mark, then sliding the workpiece carefully up to my starting point. You don’t have to hit the “start” point immediately in the cut; just getting there in the end is what matters.

Tim Inman: I love being known as an “artisan” in the trade. Woodworkers and furniture makers are a delicious combination of skill and art. Most of what we do is driven by the artistic expression of our projects. Some of it is driven by utility and usefulness and some is controlled by the equipment we use to execute our goals. We are skilled, but we are also artists. Knowing HOW to do something like a drop cut is important. It is not important to always do a drop cut if there is another simpler, better way to do the job. But, sometimes there isn’t another better, simpler, safer way. Knowing HOW to do it gives us total freedom to enjoy the expression of our art – and get the job done safely and efficiently. Especially for those of us who make a living doing things like this!

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There are a number of steps of restoring any antique and many variations of those steps. First and foremost is to analyze the project by getting a note pad and pencil.

– Take detail notes about what needs to be done. It helps when you are finished to cut the lines apart and rearrange them in the order that you will use them. Then rewrite the list including things like things that you will need. For example the color of stain, type of varnish, amount and type of sand paper.

– Next, before you disassemble anything take pictures especially of any items that are damages and you will need to disassemble. Make any notes on specialty hardware such as the length and type of screws. I also clean the piece with Amish wood milk (Available at Walmart online). This product takes all of the dirt, grease and wax, but does not hurt varnish. Many times I find that all a piece of furniture needs is a good cleaning. This product even removes some of the white rings. All that the white ring is is moisture trapped under the finish. It removes the dirt, grease and wax that has built up from years of use and cleaning. It does not hurt the original finish.

– Make a shopping list. Making sure that you have enough glue, stain, varnish, and any special hardware that you do not have or want to change during reassembly.

– Get a magnetic dish to hold all of the screws or a plastic container with a lid. This helps if you get several projects going on at the same time to prevent mixing up the hardware.

– Make a list of the order of disassembly to prevent removing unnecessary items. It helps during reassembly if you take pictures during this process. It also helps if you have a strong knowledge of the bases of all your products. For example, Elmer’s glue is water based and while wet can be cleaned up with soap and water. While Gorilla glue is a epoxy glue that foams when it gets wet. In fact, the instructions invite you to moisten both pieces before applying the glue. Once applied and clamped, I do not attempt to do anything else with the glue until it dries. Then, I will cut the excess with a knife or chisel then as a last step I use a sander.

– After I have disassembled the entire piece and sanded any piece that needs touchup, I will stain most pieces before any glue is applied. The reason for this is that stain is oil based and glue is water based and the two do not mix.

– I make a sheet on the color and type of stain for future use. If you have to have to deviate from the normal standard colors, then put a piece of masking tape on the top or side with the formula. It is best to make sure that you have enough stain at the beginning for the entire project, because duplicating the formula with exact results is unlikely.

-Larry Potts

Mount Holly, NC

See the Gallery Below:

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