After purchasing a miter saw and realizing he didn’t have other tools he needed for the project, David said he realized why the quoted price for the frames was so expensive. (And he still hasn’t made them.) But he did find a renewed interest in woodworking.

From that high school shop class, he had some knowledge of the use of tools, but he also educated himself through magazines, YouTube videos and signing up for an in-person class once a week with a local woodworker.

Professionally, at the time, David was a web developer, and he built a website for his woodworking, thinking, “I’ll just document my projects.” He had, in fact, at one point tried to go into business for himself as a web developer, since he had always wanted to work for himself, but it didn’t work out.

After a year passed with his woodworking hobby, however, David realized a) he had spent a lot of money on tools and b) “with my photography background, I should start a YouTube [channel]. Woodworking really took over my life, and it was my new love. I did not enjoy web development once I started woodworking.”

He started out with band saw boxes, which he says is what “really got me into woodworking. It was instant gratification.” At the time, most of the other band saw boxes he had seen “were all amoeba-shaped, so I thought, ‘I’m going to make them a little different, with circles and rectangles.”

And, once he started selling things, David realized, “Oh, I could do this full-time.”

That wasn’t his original plan, which is why he dropped his original online moniker, “The Drunken Woodworker,” around the middle of last year. “When I got started, I called myself ‘The Drunken Woodworker.’ It was a joke. I had no idea this was going to be my career. Then I had a 13-year-old kid introduce me to his dad at an event, ‘This is the Drunken Woodworker.’ It was embarrassing.”

In general, David said, when choosing projects, “I try to do things that other people aren’t doing. I like to think of myself as a creative person.” For instance, he will find items at antique or thrift stores, tear them apart and rebuild them – using the “guts” of clocks, or getting rid of the plaser mount for a desk lamp and adding a mahogany base, for instance. “I like making things out of trash, and I really enjoy taking old things and combining with new.”

He’s done that with music (David is also a musician), and he expands it to other projects, like an old guitar amp he found at a thrift store, tore apart and made into one that hangs on his wall.

David has also been finding old woodworking books on these thrift store expeditions, and recently made a dachshund-shaped tie rack from a 1950s-era book. “I kind of want to get into things that don’t fit into the modern-day lifestyle,” he said.

“The latest project is usually my favorite; there’s not a particular tool or technique I like more than another,” David said. His criteria focus more on style. “I really love Sam Maloof because he had a style. That’s what I want in the future. I want somebody to look at something in the future and say, ‘That’s a Picciuto. Whatever gets me to that style, that’s what I’m going to use.’”

He does appreciate exotic woods, as well as walnut: “Whenever you put oil on wanut, it’s beautiful. And where I live, it’s easy to get, and relatively cheap.”

And, in recent projects – a series of cutting boards for his forthcoming book this fall with Spring House Press – David has tried bamboo. “It’s fun to work with; it takes oil well. I think you’re going to see a lot more bamboo projects from me in the future.”

The cutting board book is a follow-up to David’s book from last year, The New Bandsaw Box Book, which features several patterns for his modernized band saw boxes.

Overall, David said, “I don’t want to teach woodworking as much as I want to teach creativity. I think if you dig deep enough, you can learn creativity, so eventually people go out and do metalwork or be a woodworker or whatever and just make something and learn to be creative.”

The post David Picciuto: Teaching Creativity Through YouTube appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

– Fred Stark
Neosho, Missouri

The post Lacquer Thinner Rejuvenates Wood Putty appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

– Larry Krajewski
LaCrosse, Wisconsin

The post Handy Quilter’s Tool Checks Dimensions appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The new Powermatic CNC routers are designed to cut wood, sheet goods and composites, plastics, aluminum or other soft metals and foam. They can perform a broad range of woodcutting tasks, including intricate 3D carvings, furniture components, cabinet door panels, moldings, joinery, sign boards, picture frames, engineering prototypes and much more.

A handheld controller is connected to each machine’s digital signal processor box with an 8-ft. cable, which provides convenient oversight of projects from different positions. It’s not necessary to connect a computer to the router. The controller is equipped with a USB port for efficient file transfer. Those files can be designed in many CAM software platforms, including VCarve Desktop, VCarve Pro, Vectric Aspire and others.

These Powermatic machines feature welded steel frames for rigidity and vibration dampening. Their heavy-duty gantry supports are constructed of gravity-cast, aluminum alloy. The enclosed steel stands include storage drawers, as well as independent leveling feet and swivel casters for mobility.

Their sturdy work surfaces consist of an extruded aluminum table featuring integrated T-slots that allow hold-down clamps to be positioned in multiple locations. The PM-2x2RK table measures 39-1/4- x 28-1/2-in. and the PM-2x4SPK table measures 63- x 28-1/2-in. Four hold-down clamps are included with both machines. An MDF spoil board protects the table from damage and can be quickly resurfaced by using a program that is pre-loaded in the controller.

The PM-2X4SPK is pre-wired for 230-volt, single-phase operation. It is equipped with 3 HP variable-speed spindle motor that that operates at 0 to 24,000 RPM. It has an ER20 collet that accepts both 1/4- and 1/2-in. bits. The electro spindle is liquid-cooled, and a radiator and fan assembly dissipates heat.

Powermatic’s 2x2RK is equipped with a universal 3-1/2-in. router mount that accepts several compatible woodworking router motors. It’s pre-wired for 115-volt operation.

Spindle movement on each axis is controlled by high-torque stepper motors mounted above the spindle on the gantry bridge. Precision ball screws with recirculating ball bearings allow rapid movement on each axis, while maintaining precise spindle placement. The rapid feed rate of both CNC routers is 200 inches per minute.

Linear guideways also feature recirculating ball bearings for accurate positioning of the tool bit. Flexible nylon track chains protect cables from rubbing and stress.

A puck is included to quickly and easily re-zero the Z axis using a button on the controller.

Both models can be connected to a dust collection system via a 4-in. port on the included dust shoe, mounted beneath the spindle.

The PM-2x2RK Router (model 1797022K; $5,719.99) weighs 598 lbs. and requires 52- X 45-in. of floor space. The PM- 2X4SPK Router (model 1797024K; $8,499.99) weighs 748 lbs. and has a footprint of 52- X 69-in. Both are covered by Powermatic’s 5-year warranty.

“Our new CNC routers answer the demand by many woodshops and enthusiasts for the wide-ranging applications and precision of these computer-controlled cutting machines,” said Katie Davidson, Powermatic’s Product Manager. “These versatile machines can accurately and efficiently produce quantities of identical items, as readily as intricate one-of-a-kind creations.”

Learn more about Powermatic’s new CNC router line by clicking here.

The post Powermatic Unveils CNC Routers appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Tim Inman: Cabriole legs are “stylized,” not “formulized” furniture motifs. Can you say that? What I mean is that the classical cabriole leg is an artistic motif based upon a stylized model of an animal and a theme. They are commonly seen in many reiterations over centuries, but most commonly in 1700s and 1800s fine furniture. Historically, the motif resembles the leg of a goat crouched and ready to jump. The foot is sometimes referred to as a “bun and pad” and sometimes as a “ball and claw” motif. The ball is thought to represent a dragon holding the “pearl of wisdom.” Queen Anne furniture typically shows a more subtle and elongated shape with a softer bun and pad foot. Chippendale, on the other hand, shows sharply defined lines and a dragon’s clawed toes holding the pearl. Queen Anne cabrioles are typically much more elongated. Some Chippendale legs are so “crouched” they seem like they might be ready to fold in on themselves. It is all about art, not about math.

Chippendale cabrioles are classically made with a band saw and templates as I think you are attempting to do. Queen Anne cabrioles were actually turned on a lathe – by hand! Allan Batty, who unfortunately just passed away in July of this year, demonstrates this in one of his videos. He was one of the last of the true “tradesmen turners” who made these as a journeyman turner working for a living – not as a furniture artist. I hope this helps you in your design quests for the “perfect” cabriole for your project.

Chris Marshall: In the October and December 2009 print issues of our magazine, Kerry Pierce built a beautiful Queen Anne walnut highboy in a two-part article series. While he doesn’t cover the basics of designing a cabriole leg for any project, as you’d like to learn how to do for your projects, Butch, he does cover the process for making the legs on this highboy in quite a bit of detail, with drawings and photos. And Kerry is an expert at the style. You can access the two-part series for free in the archives of our Premium Content section if you are a paying subscriber to Woodworker’s Journal. It’s worth the read!

The post Guide for Making Cabriole Legs? appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

– Leon Bridges

See the Gallery Below:

The post Country Style Pantry appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Some readers just aren’t very fond of using hand planes. – Editor

“I just have a block plane.  When I need it, I have to have it, but there are so many ways to smooth and flatten wood without the sweat. My go-to flattener is my drum sander.” – Phil Zoeller

“I am 78 and in my shop almost every day and I can’t remember the last time I used a hand plane. I have three (different sizes), and I don’t even know why I bought them many years ago. There are other tools in my shop that do the job better, faster, and less tiring. Hand planes do seem to be fascinating for collectors.” –  Ron Dvorsky

“I have not touched mine since my grandfather gave them to me. I will be 70 in October. It has nothing to do with results. With all the other toys I own, why bother with the plane?” – Neal Schwabauer

“Unless I have a lot of time and need a particular profile, I almost never use a hand plane.  1. I’m not good with them. 2. I [stink] at sharpening anything. 3. My joiner and my planer are within five steps in my shop.” – E.J. Eiteljorge

“First, I am primarily a turner, so my use of hand planes is limited. Part of my limitation with planes is in tuning, getting the blade position just so. It’s sharp, but often high on one side. The other part is laziness. I have a 22/44 surface planer, and it’s so easy to just run a board through there.” –  Barry Saltsberg

“Been doing hobby woodworking for more than 40 years. Seldom ever use a hand plane except to finish a lip on a drawer or box. Seems a sander does a better job for me. A hand plane (I have four different planes) nearly always chips out or tears out a chunk, even as sharp as I keep my planes. Perhaps I am using the planes all wrong. Never had any formal training; just picked up on what others are doing along my learning curve.” Reg H.  Langley

“Your qualification about surfacing wood assumes that the woodworker is going to prepare the stock by hand.  While I know how to do that, it would not qualify as one of the fun aspects of woodworking.  A good powered jointer and planer are much faster and probably more accurate. I do have a number of planes that I don’t use, or use very seldom – but I’m not ready to get rid of them yet.” – Mike Henderson

“I find it easier and sometimes quicker to grab a plane for small jobs or even joint a couple of small boards easier than using a powered jointer at the other side of the shop, not to mention it’s a lot quieter! However, I love my thickness planer and won’t try to do that job by hand. I will deal with the noise and dust/chips instead of wear my arm/shoulder in a sling for a day afterwards. I have effectively wore my joints out as a FF/EMT-A for 15 years, so I tend to lean towards easier means of woodwork.” – Kevin Hanes

For some, there is a learning curve associated with hand plane use, whether it’s sharpening or another aspect. Some feel they’ve mastered it; others, not so much. – Editor

“ I have a couple of small planes I inherited from my father, but I do not use them. Sharpening anything but a pocketknife or my wife’s cutlery is the only thing I feel competent doing. My attempts at sharpening my wood chisels have not been successful, so sharpening my plane blades would not be pretty.“ – Dave Rice

“I use hand planes for almost every phase of a project: block plane about 90 percent of that, and my bench chisels even more often. Challenged by keeping them sharpened.” – Dale Smith

“My biggest plane challenge was to switching from plug-and-go mode back to shop class basics. So I watched several videos on plane tune-ups.  It took all of about 30 minutes to tune a very off-brand tool.  Now this HF tool is my go-to plane.” –  Steve Boyle

“Put me with the majority who do not use a hand plane for finishing. However, I do often use a hand plane to remove glue, level edge banding on plywood panels, make small changes in joints for a better fit and other ‘cleanup’ work. I don’t own a long plane for finishing. Also, I never feel confident that my hand plane is set up optimally. I keep my irons sharp using the marble tile/sandpaper method. I usually take them to 5,000-grit. I also use a holder to keep the irons at the right angle. I experimented with different angles, but again, wasn’t sure if the effort was worth it or not. I enjoy the sound and feel of the hand plane, but just not enough to commit totally.” – Rich Franks

“You hit the nail on the head for why many of us don’t use them more often.  Before I splurged for the Worksharp 3000, I didn’t use my hand planes very much at all because I never got good results from them.  And I hated sharpening them, because I never had a system that I felt comfortable with for sharpening beyond a mediocre result.  With the WS3K combined with a few buffing wheels & compounds on a bench grinder, I get Jimmy Diresta ‘arm shaving’ sharp blades in very little time.  Resultantly, I find a use for my hand planes on nearly every project now.  As the saying goes, ‘When you have a hammer, there is a tendency to make everything a nail.” – Andrew Thiessen

.“My problem was getting a super sharp blade.  My old No.4 was carefully tuned, and I thought the blade was well sharpened, but it didn’t perform as well as I expected.  So it wasn’t used often. Then I got a new Veritas low-angle smoother, and it was great out of the box.

“Along the way, I started to experiment with sharpening and honing with ceramic stones, primarily Shaptons, and WOW!  My old No. 4 now is as good as the new Veritas.  So the answer is you really need to sharpen.  I now use the planes a lot.” – Bruce Wedlock

And some readers use their planes and, in fact, are quite fond of them. – Editor

“When I was a lad (Don’t stories that start that way make you feel elderly?), I rarely used a bench plane. In fact, I wasn’t allowed to because that was my father’s tool. Moving into a smaller shop limits the power tools and necessitates tools-on-wheels to get things done. The hand plane does an excellent job, quiet and with little dust. All good qualities, but the real difference came when I built a decent workbench with end and leg vises. It made a huge difference and led to actual quality finishes with hand tools.” – Doug Walkey

“I tend to use my hand planes (Nos. 4, 5, 6, plow, block and shoulder) for the tasks of squaring, surfacing and trimming smaller project work, particularly for pieces where using my planer/thicknesser would be dangerous. The use of my planes therefore depends very much on my projects at the time. There always will be tasks for which only a hand plane can do the job, e.g. preparing the cross-banding inserts for cribbage boards!” – Glenn Hunt

“I love to use my hand planes and look for ways to use them on every project. I give credit for this to Paul Sellers’ sharpening method which I find fast, convenient, and non-messy.” – Thomas Wilson

“I don’t do anything without a hand plane next to me, and it may be a bench plane, block plane, rabbet plane, etc. Sounds like I am one of the bottom eight, or top eight, or a minority in other words. I don’t have power tools, space or desire for more noise, and, while good tools are expensive, sometimes no cheaper than powered tools, I think of them as things that will outlive me. That’s my justification for having them and the space and noise is my justification for using them.” – Sam Zaydel

“I use mine on every project: an old Stanley #7 to true and square up edges after table saw sizing; every surface is planed with a smoother even after running through my Powermatic 15” helical head planer.  You just can’t beat hand planing or hand planed surfaces, but then I’m 66 and have been doing hand work for decades” – John G. Eugster

“I use my hand plane often. Especially when I work on edges and so on. I am sure that it is an ‘age’ thing. I am 63 and still find that the best results for me is to use my hand planes to get the best result on edges. Whenever I need to [work on] bigger flat surfaces I will make use of my electric planer/thickener.” –  Dan Pienaar

“Count me in; I’m using hand planes (and hand saws as well!), and really enjoy them.  But I do understand about their using having a pretty big learning curve, both the basic use for surfacing and other functions, but also in terms of maintenance (sharpening, etc.).” – Jim Amos

“I use machinery to take roughsawn boards to dressed face and edge, or
DAR; after that I use hand planes almost exclusively. There would not be
a day in the shop when I am not using a plane, and my favorite planes
are those I have made using the Krenov method.” – David Gunn

“I am primarily a model maker: wooden ships and boats and other boats that wood is either the primary material or a lesser material.  I use a plane quite often, but it’s a small finger plane.  It’s only 1-1/2″ long and 5/8″ wide with a brass body and the only marking on it is ESE on the left side.  Have used it for years.

“Recently I started to use a #2 Lie Neilsen plane in the shop on some pretty small parts where I needed a bit longer tool surface.  It works wonders in bringing a solid block to a hull shape that can then be worked with gouges and the finger plane.  I am not using it to level the surface but to make parallel cuts to bring the gently curved sides closer to size.  Just like working a flat board, I need to work with the grain, not against it, but this plane really does the job.” – Kurt van Dahm

“Hand planes are something that have more recently (in the last couple years) come into my shop out of my desire to learn more about using hand tools and developing the craft and skill necessary to shape wood without relying on loud, dusty machines that take up space most of the time. I enjoy the solitary pleasure of shaping and forming wood by hand. While it’s often not as fast as the machines, and while my skill definitely needs improving, I prefer the minor imperfections of my skill over a ‘perfect’ surface that I feel like I had little to do with.

“More and more I am relying on hand planes, along with other hand tools.  The big drawbacks for me are having enough time to develop the necessary skill, and the budget to acquire the high quality of tools that really make the results so much better.  The big advantage is that the work is much quieter, cleaner, and satisfying. The quiet part is important for two reasons beyond my hearing: I live in the city and my neighbors appreciate it, and I have baby at home, and I can work during naps!” – Robert Jack

“Perhaps I can put it in perspective. Do I take the cover off the jointer/planer machine and roll it out into the working environment? Then plug it in and attach the dust collector? All for one edge that somehow didn’t get machined when I machined 30 or 40 board feet for a project. I’ll dig out the hand plane to do the job. Or when I need to break/chamfer an edge of a piece rather than setting up the router table. Generally, I try to plan my work so that it is one machine operation at a time.” –  Rich Flynn

“I don’t normally respond to these questions. I have spent 28 years playing at woodworking. I cannot imagine doing any of my projects without my hand tools complementing the power tools. They work to make each other more enjoyable and fast. To me there is nothing like an early morning, a sleeping household, a fresh cup of coffee and using my finish plane on the project at hand. There is truly something soothing about the sound of curls of coming off the plane. Those saved plane shavings are saved for fire starter in the fire pit when it’s chilly.” – Bill Perez

“I use my planes more and more all the time. In my 75 years, I’ve always had at least one in my set of tools.  I’ve now got six planes that occupy space at my bench. Although I do most of my work with machines and power tools, I can’t remember a project done without a hand plane. Most woodworkers don’t know the capabilities of them and so don’t see the value in learning skills necessary to sharpen, set up, and use them.” – Bill Needham

“I use mine almost exclusively. I have a handheld power planer as well as a Dewalt 12″ surface planer but probably use them once a year combined.  A good, sharp hand plane leaves a finish that is not even attainable with sandpaper in a fraction of the time.  It does take a little time to get one sharp and tuned up but, once you’ve done it, you never need to do anything but touch up the blade now and then.  Most of mine are old Stanley Bailey models that used to belong to my father or grandfather.  They still work like brand-new.  Properly sharpened, you can shave a strip off the side of a piece of 1-inch lumber that you can read the newspaper through.  Nothing like it.” –  Chuck Chall

The post Hand Planes: How and Why You Do (and Don’t) Use Them appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.