“Our ‘Made in America’ heritage and commitment to quality are two big reasons why the T50 Stapler is one of the most well-recognized manual staplers for construction tasks of any brand out there,” says Gregg Malanga, Arrow’s marketing product manager.

Over a tenure that spans nearly 90 years, Arrow has established itself as a market leader for a variety of stapling products, including the iconic T50 and another favorite of pro users — the HT50 Hammer Tacker. Now, the company is expanding into a new area of fastening products: pneumatics. Arrow tested the waters first with its PT50 Pneumatic Stapler. Connected to an ordinary air compressor, it fires five sizes of T50 staples that fit manual staple guns. After that, and more recently, the company added a 23-gauge pin nailer, 18-gauge brad nailer and a 15-gauge angled finish nailer to its air-tool product family.

Malanga says Arrow’s decision to offer pneumatic fastening tools was a “natural fit” for the company. “Compressor ownership is at an all-time high, and pneumatics are not as intimidating to consumers as once perceived … these are two reasons why we want to provide our customers with the added power and performance of a pneumatic system.”

Retailing for $34.99, the PT50 Pneumatic Stapler has a number of standout features worth noting. Made of die-cast aluminum with an overmolded grip, it fires T50 staples ranging from 1/4- to 9/16-in. And, similar to a standard nail gun, the stapler has a contact safety mechanism that prevents accidental firing, plus a bump-fire mode for fast, repeated use.

“This tool is amazing, with the bump-fire capability and a quick reload magazine,” Malanga adds. “It has been selling well with hundreds of positive online reviews.”

Leveraging on the success of the PT50, Arrow launched its three other pneumatic nailers with woodworkers and DIYers in mind. All three nailers have die-cast aluminum housings. Arrow’s PT18G 18-gauge Brad Nailer shoots brads up to 2-in. long. It features a tool-less jam clearing nose, similar to many other brad nailers, plus a contact safety and low-nail indicator on the magazine.

“It’s the perfect companion for most small trim and interior molding work, yet it’s durable enough for heavy-duty use,” Malanga says.

Pin nailers have been gaining traction among woodworkers for about a decade now. Their slender fastener size and surprising holding power make them handy, especially when you need to attach thin or delicate moldings and don’t want to see the evidence of a nail head. Arrow’s new PT23 Pin Nailer fires 1/2- to 1-in. pins. It has a pin length adjuster, quick-load magazine and a swiveling exhaust so you can direct air blasts away from where you’re working.

“Our PT15G Angled Nailer features a 34-degree magazine for hard-to-reach corners and working in tight spaces,” Malanga says. The gun shoots 1-1/4- to 2-1/2-in., 15-gauge nails, with tool-less jam clearing and a rubber, non-marring tip. A contact safety ensures that the gun won’t fire unless you’re ready and positioned to drive a nail.

The feature sets of these various tools are pretty typical of what’s out there in other brands. But a point worth noting about this pneumatic line is Arrow’s economical pricing. The PT18G Brad Nailer, for instance, retails for just $59.99. Arrow’s PT23G Pin Nailer sells for $49.99, and the PT15G 15-gauge Angled Nailer has a street price of $145.99.

Malanga explains that part of the rationale for offering budget-friendly pneumatic tools is that Arrow’s product focus has shifted in recent years. “We’ve moved from a manufacturing centered company to a consumer-centric company,” he says.

That re-alignment has resulted in some 40 new tools being offered with a key focus on the end user. What once was primarily a professional market, Arrow now sees its customer base more broadly: today’s woodworkers, DIYers and makers are buying Arrow fastening tools right along with pro contractors, carpenters, upholsters, wire installers and roofers.

“We want to offer price points that are attractive to both professionals and consumers,” Malanga says. “Our pneumatic products offer value pricing compared to the competition.”

But, a good deal on a pneumatic tool from Arrow doesn’t mean the buyer is fated once the purchase is made. Arrow offers a 3-year warranty on its pneumatic guns, and replacement parts are available if repairs become necessary.

So far, feedback on the new pneumatic line has been positive, Malanga reports. Customers are appreciating both the attractive pricing and quality of the tools. Arrow’s new venture, it appears, is hitting its target.

“The entrepreneurial spirit of our founder continues to this day and is reflected in our products and programs,” Malanga says. “We enable people to complete projects and learn together. It is how we have led the industry in innovation, style and functionality for over 85 years.”

Learn more about Arrow Fastener’s pneumatic tools by clicking here.

The post Arrow Fastener Now Offers Affordable Pneumatics appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The post Cutting Box and Chest Lids appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Rockler’s new 1-in. Masking Tape Dispenser is a lightweight, low-cost solution that gives your shop tape a proper home base. Made of galvanized steel for durability and corrosion resistance, the dispenser accepts any 1-in.-wide tape roll with an inside diameter of 3-in. Just flex the steel frame to slip a roll into place. Its serrated cutting edge enables pieces to be pulled to length and torn free with one hand.

Pre-punched keyhole slots on the bottom or back of the dispenser enable you to mount it either horizontally or vertically with screws, wherever tape storage is most convenient.

Rockler’s 1-in. Masking Table Dispenser (item 56769) is available now at Rockler stores nationwide, online or in the printed catalog. It sells for $11.99.

The post Rockler 1-in. Masking Tape Dispenser appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Tim Inman: Why? Is it the look? Is it the feel? Is there a historic preservation ethic you’re dealing with? All other things being equal, I would suggest that a better choice for anything kitchen – even on the interior of the cabinets – would be a modern coating. Kitchens are greasy, hot and humid. You can get a good paint that has the look and feel of milk paint. So, unless the chemistry of the real thing is important to you, I’d go with something that is designed and proven tougher for your kitchen work. Remember, originally, milk paint was used because it made use of the casein resin in milk that was locally available. It was not used because it was just that much superior to anything else. It was cheap and available. You are not restricted to that parameter.

Chris Marshall: I’d go with an acrylic latex that’s tinted to match the milk paint color you are after. The sheen won’t be quite right, of course, but the color can be darn close. Kitchen cabinets need easy-to-clean surfaces, even on the inside. And that means there has to be some degree of sheen to the paint above a “flat.” I like satin—it looks flat enough but still wipes clean easily. For me, the ability to take a wet, soapy sponge and clean off fingerprints, dust or greasy cooking residue outweighs all other considerations. And, soapy water won’t damage the paint.

The post Which Milk Paint Should I Use for Kitchen Cabinets? appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

But new on the T-8, Tormek has upgraded its mounting system for the machine’s universal tool support. Previously, the sleeves were mounted as a separate piece with screws on the sharpener’s housing, but now they are incorporated into the T-8’s full casting. The design change, which eliminates unwanted play, improves sharpening control when using the support in tandem with Tormek’s various sharpening jigs, while increasing sharpening accuracy.

Its plastic water trough also has been modified with a screw lift for easier fitting and a magnetic scraper for more efficient cleaning.

The T-8 includes Tormek’s updated SE-77 Square Edge Jig: it enables you to sharpen square-edges on chisels, plane irons and turning scrapers, but you can also perfect slightly out-of-square blades or even create cambered cutting edges on your tools. A moveable slide and new adjustment screws make this added versatility possible.

Other standard items that come with the T-8 include a TT-50 Truing Tool, SP-650 Stone Grader, WM-200 AngleMaster and a tube of PA-70 Honing Compound, plus a user’s handbook and instructional DVD.

Tormek’s new T-8 Wet Grinder Sharpening System will sell for $699.99. It’s backed by a 7-year warranty.

The post Tormek T-8 Wet Grinder Sharpening System appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

I suggest that, before painting, one might want to take a better look at what is beneath the current finish. Here is what I found, and refinished, on some 1972 Haas kitchen cabinets.

– David F. Rogers, PhD, ATP

See the Gallery Below:

The post Refinished Kitchen Cabinets appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

“Hate is not strong enough when it comes to miter joints. I am about to buy some expensive composite decking, and the pattern my wife has decided upon calls for numerous miter joints. I anxiously await to read on how–to tricks to get accurate miter joints.” – Al Phillips

“I chuckled when reading your post about the frustrating miter joint(s).  Being an ol’ woodshop teacher, you think I’d have it ‘down pat’ by now, but I fall into the same category with you. I think I’ve built 4-5 jigs over the years, but I have fairly good luck with one of them. I have to admit it’s not ‘right-on’ but between an old  45-degree drafting triangle, a deck of cards and some file cards I usually get it close enough for a passing grade. I sandwich the cards between the frame and the rail on the jig and usually alter the angle enough to get it close, but as you know … the correction is x4!! The best way around it all: when someone asks you to make a frame … send them to Hobby Lobby!” – Frank Cackowski

“Rob, I always look forward to your blurb at the beginning of the WJ eZine. They always seem to be on the mark. I am just getting  more serious about woodworking after I retired. After going through the cutting board phase, I’m now working on keepsake boxes. By far, the mitered corners are the hardest thing to get right. I can’t say how glad I am that even you have problems with miters. I thought it was just me.” – Greg Mansker

“I, too have trouble with miters! I have been woodworking for 30 years and sometimes I struggle to get gapless miters! I am eager to see what your readers have to say!” – Denny Grant

Cutting miters has even put some friendships to the test. – Editor

“I have my own troubles with that, hired a friend to assist on one project, he insisted on drawing a chop saw to the end of its travel on the tubes and pushing the blade into the cut. That failed miserably despite repeatedly checking the miter with a gauge blade to fence. So, never do that. After my good buddy had trashed a stick of material with his ‘technique’ I cheerfully shared a beer with him and sent him on his merry way. Checked the saw later by gauging the angle (despite preset click, never trust that there) and used the saw as manufacturer intended by dropping the blade into the material and pulling it through and, voila, far better results. My friend is still a friend but no longer remotely interested in his bizarre ‘technique.’” – Paul Sherman

But, it seems that some woodworkers have found miter cutting techniques that do work for them. – Editor

“Every time I go to make a miter cut that really means something, I check my miter gauge for accuracy and I also make sure the square is accurate.  That can be really frustrating to cut a good piece of wood that does not fit and find out that there is a problem with the square.  One of my most reliable squares I found was not square.” – Frank Kay

“I scribe lines at 30, 45, & 90 degrees left and right with a drafting square on the saw table.” –  Bob Peter

“Cut your miters on the table saw or chop saw then pull out your miter plane and shootimg board! True up the saw cuts in one or two passes of the miter plane and you will have perfect miters every time!” – Clint Struthers

“I think that it is really important to have a set of scrap pieces to try the cut. Measure the corner to see if your corner is an accurate 90° or whatever.
I recently had to cut a mitered frame that had a 3″ front rail, 2″ side rails and a 1″ back rail. The miters were straight miters from the outside corner to the inside corner so it meant some acute angle cuts. I used a layout with the miters drawn in, a protractor and lots of test cuts.” – Chris Barker

And, for some, commercial jigs and gauges have been the answer. – Editor

“I’ve struggled with this as well, but no more.  I took a page from the machinists in the world and bought a NOGA magnetic gauge holder and dial indicator.  The first order of business is to get your blade parallel to the fence with as much accuracy as you can muster.  I then used a precision square, which I clamped to my miter gauge head with the miter gauge at 90 degrees to blade.  I then adjusted the miter gauge head until I had less than 0.001″ of deflection over 8.5″ of travel.  Once that is complete, you can swing the miter gauge over to 45 degrees and then check the alignment again using the 45 degree angle on the square.

“Excessive?  Maybe.  But on the other hand, I’m confident that when I set the miter gauge to an angle, I’m getting the angle I expect. The Incra miter gauges help with this as they have detents for every degree of rotation and a vernier for sub-degree settings.

“My only regret is that I didn’t realize how useful the NOGA/dial indicator combination would be until after I finally broke down and bought it.  Should have done it years ago.” –  Dr. Smith

“This is probably overkill, but I do cut my miters only once. Obviously, the table saw needs to be well tuned-up. First, I use a digital ‘tilt’ box to make sure the blade is precisely set 90 degrees to the table top. I have the luxury of having two Incra miter gauges with long fences.  Use stop blocks to insure that matching sides are exactly the same length. Set one gauge at 45 degrees (to the blade) in the left miter slot using a precision engineering 45 degree angle.  Set the other gauge at 45 degrees in the right slot, again using the precision angle. Then use a precision engineering square between the two miter gauges to confirm they are exactly at right angles to each other.  Tweak the setup as necessary to insure accuracy.  Cut one side of each miter using one gauge.  Cut the other sides using the other gauge, with a stop block to get matching lengths. Sounds like a lot of work to do the setup.  But once you’ve done it several times, it only takes a few minutes. Much less time than having to recut all your joints. Guess thiss is an extreme case of ‘Measure twice, cut once.’”- Ken Kuszynski

“The Osborne EB-3 miter gauge. Dead accurate right out of the box, accurate, positive detents every 5 degrees and at 22-1/2 and 67-1/2 degrees. Miters are child’s play and even octagons fit first time.” – Ralph Bagnall

“I have found the plastic miter sled from Rockler to be very accurate.” – Bernie L

The post Miter Cuts: Tips and Frustrations appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.